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Do you think
you are the only one
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00:00:37,994 --> 00:00:39,082
who really knows who you are?
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00:00:43,043 --> 00:00:46,263
[IN FRENCH] I have spent
so much time playing a role
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00:00:46,307 --> 00:00:50,311
that it's almost impossible
for anyone to know
who I really am.
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00:00:54,750 --> 00:00:57,796
And even for those
I care about the most,
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00:00:57,840 --> 00:00:59,276
I want it to be impossible.
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Karl Lagerfeld,
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00:01:01,974 --> 00:01:03,759
the German-born Paris designer
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00:01:03,802 --> 00:01:06,457
who has been called
"The King of Fashion."
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00:01:06,501 --> 00:01:08,155
He designs
for three labels,
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00:01:08,198 --> 00:01:10,418
he's a professional
photographer as well,
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00:01:10,461 --> 00:01:12,811
he creates and publishes books
under his own imprint.
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00:01:12,855 --> 00:01:15,466
He is a legend
in his own time.
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00:01:20,863 --> 00:01:23,213
I don't want to be a reality
in other people's lives.
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00:01:25,259 --> 00:01:27,217
I want to be
a fleeting presence.
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00:01:27,261 --> 00:01:28,784
Appearing and disappearing.
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00:01:31,743 --> 00:01:33,876
That's the secret
of the story I believe.
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00:01:43,407 --> 00:01:47,368
Karl was an 18th century man
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00:01:48,891 --> 00:01:50,762
and a 21st century man.
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00:01:54,244 --> 00:01:57,508
He was the past,
the present and the future.
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00:02:03,732 --> 00:02:06,691
Karl loved being more
French than the French.
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00:02:11,566 --> 00:02:16,919
He used fashion like paint.
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00:02:16,962 --> 00:02:17,963
It was a medium.
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00:02:22,794 --> 00:02:25,014
He was
an incredible storyteller.
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00:02:26,798 --> 00:02:28,452
Every single collection
of Karl
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00:02:28,496 --> 00:02:30,324
is such a love letter
to women.
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00:02:42,945 --> 00:02:47,079
Karl will be remembered
for the icon that he created
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00:02:47,123 --> 00:02:49,038
that was himself.
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00:02:51,736 --> 00:02:53,477
LILY-ROSE: He felt
very untouched by everything.
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00:02:53,521 --> 00:02:55,436
He felt very preserved
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00:02:55,479 --> 00:02:56,959
in this childlike wonder
that he had.
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00:03:00,354 --> 00:03:02,182
He really is
that little boy dreaming.
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00:03:24,421 --> 00:03:27,772
Karl Lagerfeld,
a German living in Paris,
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00:03:27,816 --> 00:03:30,035
is a world-renowned designer.
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00:03:31,950 --> 00:03:34,431
I never grew up.
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00:03:34,475 --> 00:03:36,955
I did the same thing
when I was five.
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00:03:37,913 --> 00:03:40,394
I find that very amusing.
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00:03:40,437 --> 00:03:41,960
He designs fabrics
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00:03:42,004 --> 00:03:44,485
and the luxury
Ready-to-Wear collection
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00:03:44,528 --> 00:03:46,922
for the house of Chloe.
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00:03:46,965 --> 00:03:50,926
What I enjoy
the most is designing fabrics.
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00:03:50,969 --> 00:03:53,581
I love doing it as much as
some people enjoy painting.
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00:03:53,624 --> 00:03:57,280
That's almost my...
my Sunday activity.
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00:04:01,893 --> 00:04:03,678
I wanted to be a portraitist.
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00:04:04,679 --> 00:04:05,810
But as my mother told me,
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00:04:05,854 --> 00:04:07,203
"You were born
too late for that.
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00:04:07,247 --> 00:04:08,291
"No one needs that anymore."
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00:04:09,988 --> 00:04:11,294
I sketched all the time.
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00:04:12,730 --> 00:04:14,166
The only toys and things
that I asked for
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00:04:14,210 --> 00:04:16,691
were paper and pencils,
and books.
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00:04:21,217 --> 00:04:23,175
I discovered French culture
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00:04:23,219 --> 00:04:25,395
through the letters
of Princess Palatine.
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00:04:29,617 --> 00:04:33,316
MARIE-LOUISE:
Princess Palatine was the
sister-in-law of Louis XIV.
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00:04:33,360 --> 00:04:36,319
Karl loved
talking about her stories
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00:04:36,363 --> 00:04:38,495
because she was witty,
because she was German,
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00:04:38,539 --> 00:04:41,106
because she was married
to a homosexual person.
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00:04:41,150 --> 00:04:43,718
He loved everything
about Princess Palatine.
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00:04:49,724 --> 00:04:51,682
It's the daily life
at Versailles,
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00:04:51,726 --> 00:04:54,294
and all the gossips
of Versailles,
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00:04:54,337 --> 00:04:56,948
and Karl liked gossips.
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00:04:58,863 --> 00:05:01,649
The French 18th century
is like a spine.
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It was not mine to begin with,
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00:05:04,304 --> 00:05:07,437
but I have appropriated
this spiritual heritage.
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00:05:07,481 --> 00:05:10,135
I only wanted to learn
one thing,
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00:05:10,179 --> 00:05:11,267
and that was French,
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00:05:11,311 --> 00:05:12,921
because I wanted to get
to Paris.
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00:05:17,317 --> 00:05:18,753
And then my mother said,
"You better go to Paris
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00:05:18,796 --> 00:05:20,145
because Hamburg is a door
to the world,
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but it's just a door."
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My mother said,
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00:05:27,762 --> 00:05:30,460
"There are people who get lost
and others who don't,
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00:05:30,504 --> 00:05:32,897
and my son belongs
to the category
that does not get lost.
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00:05:32,941 --> 00:05:34,116
He knows
exactly what he wants."
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00:05:45,649 --> 00:05:47,347
There was a big poster
all over Paris
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00:05:47,390 --> 00:05:50,219
about a contest for amateurs,
saying,
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00:05:50,262 --> 00:05:54,266
"Send a coat or a dress
in a sample of wool."
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So, I made sketches,
sent them,
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00:05:58,270 --> 00:06:00,403
and got first prize
for the coat.
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00:06:05,582 --> 00:06:08,019
And the boy who got the prize
for the dress
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00:06:08,063 --> 00:06:09,586
was Yves Saint Laurent.
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00:06:10,544 --> 00:06:12,763
He was a schoolboy then too.
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00:06:12,807 --> 00:06:15,331
It was
Pierre Balmain who made
my coat and he asked me,
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00:06:15,375 --> 00:06:17,028
"What do you want to do?"
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00:06:17,072 --> 00:06:18,552
I told him I was
still at school and he said,
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00:06:18,595 --> 00:06:19,857
"Why don't you join me
as an assistant?"
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That's how I started.
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00:06:25,036 --> 00:06:28,213
My first day
when I started to work
at Balmain,
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00:06:28,257 --> 00:06:30,868
I said to myself, instead of
the rest of the life,
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00:06:30,912 --> 00:06:32,870
it's to commit suicide.
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00:06:32,914 --> 00:06:35,569
But I said to myself,
"You're not here
as an art critic,
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"you are here to learn."
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00:06:38,963 --> 00:06:42,097
Back then,
we had to bring out
all the details,
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00:06:42,140 --> 00:06:44,969
the embroideries,
every single flower,
every little thing.
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00:06:45,013 --> 00:06:47,798
That's why
I draw clothes so well.
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00:06:47,842 --> 00:06:50,845
You had to be able to see
every stitch and every detail
in the clothes.
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00:06:54,414 --> 00:06:56,851
I started
as an assistant.
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00:06:56,894 --> 00:07:00,071
There were six other people
a hundred times older than I.
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00:07:00,115 --> 00:07:01,986
And six months later,
they were all fired,
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00:07:02,030 --> 00:07:03,205
and I was a boss.
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00:07:05,163 --> 00:07:07,992
And after that, I worked for
a few years for Patou,
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00:07:08,036 --> 00:07:11,518
and I was the art director
of the Patou.
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That's where
I really learned the trade
from the head seamstresses
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who'd worked in
the '20s and '30s
and knew fabrics.
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Some of them
were 75 years old,
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and they were better
than the youngsters.
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Who do you work for?
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00:07:30,232 --> 00:07:34,062
For almost
20 different businesses
of all kinds.
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00:07:37,892 --> 00:07:40,068
When Karl arrived at Chloe,
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Gaby Aghion was
an incredible woman
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who was running that house.
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So, Karl at Chloe invented
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the Pret-a-Porter that
wasn't coming from
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a couture house.
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Karl was hungry.
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He wanted to see,
he wanted to know,
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he wanted to hear.
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00:07:58,390 --> 00:08:01,393
And I used to see him
with Antonio Lopez.
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Antonio Lopez was
a very talented
American illustrator
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from Puerto Rico.
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00:08:09,314 --> 00:08:13,101
So, the three,
they were like a little
triangle of creativity.
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Karl, Gaby, and Antonio.
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Antonio would do the sketches,
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00:08:20,195 --> 00:08:22,153
and I would model them.
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And Karl would come up
with these concepts.
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In America, when
I first started modelling,
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black beauty was not
considered beautiful.
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But when I arrived in Paris,
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Karl saw all races
as one bouquet.
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We came along from New York
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with the sounds of America,
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and the energy, the freedom.
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We were liberated women,
and we were beyond couture.
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We were just kids
from the street
who dressed up.
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00:09:01,671 --> 00:09:03,455
Look, how does
this look, darling?
Beautiful.
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It was just us
playing around
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and ripping things up,
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00:09:06,720 --> 00:09:09,984
and everybody was so excited
to build an outfit.
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00:09:12,029 --> 00:09:16,251
We were combining
these new feelings of pop art
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in America with the 1920s.
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Fashion was art,
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it was underground,
it was drag,
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it was Candy Darling,
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00:09:26,827 --> 00:09:29,743
and the combination
with Karl's
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00:09:29,786 --> 00:09:36,184
refined European royal nature.
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Mr. Lagerfeld, where do you
get your inspiration?
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I'm like the skyscrapers
with all the TV antennas.
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00:09:42,886 --> 00:09:47,064
With many antennas and
picking up signals everywhere.
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[IN ENGLISH] I hated
to be out of Paris
for more than 24 hours.
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There was the feeling that
wherever you were in Europe,
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you did whatever you had to do
to make it back to Paris
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for drinks
at the Cafe de Flore,
and dancing at Le Sept.
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00:10:06,301 --> 00:10:11,219
The Club Sept
was some kind of
little Eden in Paris.
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00:10:11,262 --> 00:10:15,136
Karl Lagerfeld
was very present
with Antonio
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00:10:15,179 --> 00:10:19,575
and all these people
I was very in awe of,
you know.
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I wanted to be part of
that thing.
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It was also the home
of Guy Cuevas,
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a very famous Cuban DJ,
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00:10:27,844 --> 00:10:30,804
who really had the sound
of the Sept.
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The music
was completely new,
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like nothing we had ever
heard before.
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00:10:34,677 --> 00:10:36,853
And there was a feeling
of freedom.
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Someday I would like to live
like that again, just as free.
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00:10:57,265 --> 00:10:59,659
The first time
I saw a Chloe show,
I went to the Sept,
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00:10:59,702 --> 00:11:01,922
and we came home
at probably like
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00:11:01,965 --> 00:11:03,750
seven o'clock in the morning.
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We went straight on to
Place du Trocadero,
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00:11:06,404 --> 00:11:08,624
where Karl
was having the show,
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00:11:08,668 --> 00:11:11,714
and Guy Cuevas was there,
playing music, like, you know,
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00:11:11,758 --> 00:11:13,977
when we left him
the night before at the Sept.
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00:11:14,021 --> 00:11:16,066
So, it was like, you know,
the Sept part two.
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00:11:21,898 --> 00:11:23,508
I remember
those shows,
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00:11:23,552 --> 00:11:28,078
because I had seen Dior
number one,
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00:11:28,122 --> 00:11:32,648
number two, trois,
with the dresses passing
like that and all that.
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00:11:32,692 --> 00:11:36,478
There, it was life,
it was the street.
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00:11:36,521 --> 00:11:38,654
The energy was that
it was close.
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00:11:40,134 --> 00:11:42,876
You wanted the dress because
you were nearly in it.
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00:11:45,400 --> 00:11:48,359
Karl did it,
and you could buy it.
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00:11:57,151 --> 00:12:00,545
It was
an all over experience.
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00:12:00,589 --> 00:12:03,853
Luscious and exciting.
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00:12:03,897 --> 00:12:06,900
It was the beginning
of fashion
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00:12:06,943 --> 00:12:07,901
becoming fashionable.
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00:12:12,253 --> 00:12:15,125
It was just like,
"We're young, we're beautiful,
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00:12:15,169 --> 00:12:18,041
"we love fashion,
we love fun."
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00:12:18,085 --> 00:12:20,043
And there's that picture
of Karl having dinner
187
00:12:20,087 --> 00:12:21,349
at La Coupole.
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00:12:21,392 --> 00:12:24,004
You could feel that sex
was in the air also.
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00:12:24,047 --> 00:12:26,093
It was transpiring
from the picture.
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00:12:27,094 --> 00:12:28,443
And Jacques was there also,
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00:12:28,486 --> 00:12:30,880
representing sex in
the world of Karl.
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00:12:33,840 --> 00:12:35,929
Have you experienced
absolute love, Karl?
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00:12:37,104 --> 00:12:38,409
Yes, thank goodness.
194
00:12:41,717 --> 00:12:44,415
Jacques de Bascher
was the devil incarnate
195
00:12:44,459 --> 00:12:46,069
with the face of Garbo.
196
00:12:49,812 --> 00:12:51,771
He had an elegance
that was absolute.
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00:12:53,250 --> 00:12:55,862
He dressed like no one else,
before everyone else.
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00:12:59,039 --> 00:13:01,781
He was the person
who amused me
more than anyone.
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00:13:08,091 --> 00:13:10,746
Karl was
into bodybuilding.
200
00:13:10,790 --> 00:13:13,531
He was very beautiful.
201
00:13:13,575 --> 00:13:15,620
He would go down to
the south of France,
202
00:13:15,664 --> 00:13:16,883
Saint-Tropez,
203
00:13:16,926 --> 00:13:19,102
and we'd put on that
Bain de Soleil,
204
00:13:19,146 --> 00:13:22,453
and our bodies would be
just shining.
205
00:13:22,497 --> 00:13:25,761
And Karl would always close
himself in his room
206
00:13:25,805 --> 00:13:28,633
and read like 20 books
in the afternoon,
207
00:13:28,677 --> 00:13:30,984
never going out with the boys
208
00:13:31,027 --> 00:13:33,160
or looking for anybody
or anything.
209
00:13:37,468 --> 00:13:39,514
So, Jacques was part
of the entourage
210
00:13:39,557 --> 00:13:41,255
of the boys who came over.
211
00:13:43,126 --> 00:13:46,216
And Jacques told me,
"I'm in love with Karl.
212
00:13:47,043 --> 00:13:48,349
"Can you help me?"
213
00:13:53,397 --> 00:13:56,748
He was always dreaming about
how beautiful life could be.
214
00:14:01,449 --> 00:14:03,103
He was a charmer.
215
00:14:03,146 --> 00:14:05,322
Jacques wanted to
charm everybody.
216
00:14:07,803 --> 00:14:09,587
And made you feel like
you were his best friend
217
00:14:09,631 --> 00:14:11,981
whenever you talked to him,
whoever you were.
218
00:14:20,294 --> 00:14:21,599
Jacques was my opposite.
219
00:14:24,341 --> 00:14:26,691
He was also impossible,
despicable.
220
00:14:26,735 --> 00:14:28,171
He was perfect.
And he was the cause
221
00:14:28,215 --> 00:14:29,956
of an appalling
amount of jealousy.
222
00:14:35,178 --> 00:14:37,180
Everybody was fascinated
by Jacques,
223
00:14:37,224 --> 00:14:39,922
which I was not so fascinated
by Jacques.
224
00:14:39,966 --> 00:14:42,490
But I thought, well,
maybe I'm a girl, you know,
225
00:14:42,533 --> 00:14:44,448
I don't have
the same point of view.
226
00:14:44,492 --> 00:14:48,757
And I thought that Jacques was
very manipulative.
227
00:14:48,800 --> 00:14:51,499
He wanted to be
the focus of Paris,
228
00:14:51,542 --> 00:14:52,717
one way or another.
229
00:14:59,420 --> 00:15:03,554
Fashion is
a very, very small,
230
00:15:03,598 --> 00:15:07,689
closed,
ultra-competitive world.
231
00:15:07,732 --> 00:15:10,300
The senior designers,
the creative directors,
232
00:15:10,344 --> 00:15:14,609
are not talking
to each other, because
you are in competition.
233
00:15:14,652 --> 00:15:16,916
But there's a lot of crossover
going on.
234
00:15:16,959 --> 00:15:20,049
Our assistants are also
sleeping with each other.
235
00:15:23,487 --> 00:15:26,926
The court
reigns supreme in Paris,
236
00:15:26,969 --> 00:15:31,669
and in Paris, fashion
really is hierarchical.
237
00:15:31,713 --> 00:15:34,150
And there's a whole rhetoric
238
00:15:34,194 --> 00:15:35,804
with signs and signifiers
239
00:15:35,847 --> 00:15:39,939
that only the informed
can decipher.
240
00:15:42,593 --> 00:15:44,769
Paris at the time,
it's like Versailles.
241
00:15:46,771 --> 00:15:48,512
It's where everything happens.
242
00:15:48,556 --> 00:15:53,213
Where the greatest refinement
meets the greatest triviality.
243
00:15:53,256 --> 00:15:56,259
And Karl is a German outsider.
He has to make an impression.
244
00:15:58,348 --> 00:16:00,176
To return to
Princess Palatine,
245
00:16:00,220 --> 00:16:02,309
this German woman
arriving in Versailles,
246
00:16:02,352 --> 00:16:05,486
it is very difficult for her.
There are traps everywhere.
247
00:16:05,529 --> 00:16:08,054
But she has immense power.
248
00:16:08,097 --> 00:16:11,535
Through her wit,
which is a weapon.
249
00:16:13,842 --> 00:16:17,106
[IN ENGLISH] For Karl,
the attractiveness
of Princess Palatine
250
00:16:17,150 --> 00:16:21,981
was her astute observations
of the court,
251
00:16:22,024 --> 00:16:24,984
and the way
she could manoeuvre
252
00:16:25,027 --> 00:16:27,116
through gossip, power.
253
00:16:29,684 --> 00:16:30,990
I never attack anyone.
254
00:16:31,033 --> 00:16:34,645
But I'm not
completely defenceless.
255
00:16:34,689 --> 00:16:37,170
Are you seducible?
256
00:16:37,213 --> 00:16:39,955
For that,
I'm perhaps
a bit too "lucide."
257
00:16:39,999 --> 00:16:43,741
But I've sometimes
pulled the chair out
from under someone
258
00:16:43,785 --> 00:16:45,656
a decade later
if they deserved it.
259
00:16:45,700 --> 00:16:48,050
Even former friends...
especially those...
260
00:16:48,094 --> 00:16:50,879
Yes, I am
particularly strict
with old friends.
261
00:16:50,922 --> 00:16:52,489
Yves Saint Laurent
is one of them?
262
00:16:52,533 --> 00:16:54,100
No,
that's another story.
263
00:16:54,143 --> 00:16:57,364
It's a lot more complicated
than that.
264
00:16:57,407 --> 00:16:59,366
Of course, I knew about
the affair with Jacques
265
00:16:59,409 --> 00:17:00,671
and Yves Saint Laurent.
266
00:17:00,715 --> 00:17:03,065
But it had never
anything to do with me.
267
00:17:03,109 --> 00:17:04,414
I was never mad at Yves.
268
00:17:04,458 --> 00:17:06,199
I had been close friends
with Yves
269
00:17:06,242 --> 00:17:07,765
for more than 20 years.
270
00:17:07,809 --> 00:17:10,029
We used to go out all the time
in the early days.
271
00:17:12,118 --> 00:17:14,990
Jacques was
a very provocative person,
272
00:17:15,034 --> 00:17:17,514
so was what could he do that
273
00:17:17,558 --> 00:17:20,213
would be more upsetting
than anything?
274
00:17:20,256 --> 00:17:22,998
And Karl did care a lot more
275
00:17:23,042 --> 00:17:25,566
about his relationship
with Jacques
276
00:17:25,609 --> 00:17:28,090
than he wanted to let on.
277
00:17:28,134 --> 00:17:31,180
It's only when he realised
that he could lose Jacques
278
00:17:31,224 --> 00:17:32,790
that he started understanding
279
00:17:32,834 --> 00:17:35,141
how important
Jacques was to him.
280
00:17:38,492 --> 00:17:40,755
Did you live
under the same roof with him?
281
00:17:40,798 --> 00:17:42,931
Not very often.
I am very opposed to that.
282
00:17:44,802 --> 00:17:47,805
I'm always in favour
of separate roofs.
283
00:17:47,849 --> 00:17:49,503
Otherwise,
everything becomes banal.
284
00:17:49,546 --> 00:17:52,071
And especially as his nature
was so different from mine.
285
00:17:52,114 --> 00:17:54,464
It would have caused
immediate conflict.
286
00:17:56,249 --> 00:18:00,427
Physical closeness
is often unpleasant for you.
287
00:18:00,470 --> 00:18:02,211
Yes, I hate intimacy.
288
00:18:02,255 --> 00:18:04,300
But that's probably inherited.
289
00:18:04,344 --> 00:18:05,780
My mother was the same way.
290
00:18:09,827 --> 00:18:11,133
She was relatively distant,
291
00:18:11,177 --> 00:18:13,701
and I had to fight
for her favours.
292
00:18:13,744 --> 00:18:15,268
But that's better than
the suffocating mothers
293
00:18:15,311 --> 00:18:16,399
trying to kiss you
all the time.
294
00:18:16,443 --> 00:18:18,749
I would have hated that.
295
00:18:24,494 --> 00:18:26,192
I wish I'd met her.
296
00:18:27,062 --> 00:18:28,324
I think she would've been
297
00:18:28,368 --> 00:18:31,327
probably more frightening
than Gabrielle Chanel,
298
00:18:31,371 --> 00:18:35,592
but with an equally, you know,
quick whip wit.
299
00:18:35,636 --> 00:18:39,074
Mother always told me
my nostrils were too big.
300
00:18:39,118 --> 00:18:41,598
That she should call
a decorator to
put curtains over them.
301
00:18:46,386 --> 00:18:49,040
She said,
"Speak faster,
for the stupid things you say,
302
00:18:49,084 --> 00:18:50,390
we can't take more time."
303
00:18:50,433 --> 00:18:52,174
So I learned to
speak very fast.
304
00:18:56,787 --> 00:18:59,225
She was like
a Spartan mother.
305
00:18:59,268 --> 00:19:01,270
That's how Karl
treated himself, too.
306
00:19:01,314 --> 00:19:04,143
It was like,
"You better succeed
at anything you do."
307
00:19:07,058 --> 00:19:10,018
[IN FRENCH] And so,
this mother was the figure
308
00:19:10,061 --> 00:19:13,326
of humour, cruelty...
309
00:19:13,369 --> 00:19:16,807
and a certain idea
of education.
310
00:19:16,851 --> 00:19:20,942
[IN ENGLISH] My mother
said, "It is possible
to have a child with any man,
311
00:19:20,985 --> 00:19:22,987
"so let's not exaggerate
their importance."
312
00:19:25,729 --> 00:19:30,125
Oh, my sense of Karl was that
he was so fully apprised
313
00:19:30,169 --> 00:19:31,735
of the dignity of women.
314
00:19:31,779 --> 00:19:34,521
I do think it has
something to do with
that generation, though.
315
00:19:34,564 --> 00:19:37,263
There was a sort of equality,
316
00:19:37,306 --> 00:19:40,440
way... you know,
pre-political equality.
317
00:19:40,483 --> 00:19:43,530
A kind of matriarchy,
actually,
318
00:19:43,573 --> 00:19:45,662
that really was
a functioning thing.
319
00:19:47,316 --> 00:19:50,014
It's not just about feminism,
320
00:19:50,058 --> 00:19:52,016
it's not about women even,
321
00:19:52,060 --> 00:19:54,758
it's about a kind of
liberated spirit.
322
00:20:00,416 --> 00:20:02,070
Karl's vision
for the Fendi woman
323
00:20:02,113 --> 00:20:04,246
was a multifaceted woman.
324
00:20:08,250 --> 00:20:12,559
A very strong, independent,
and ironical,
325
00:20:12,602 --> 00:20:15,866
and clever woman,
who was approaching fashion
326
00:20:15,910 --> 00:20:17,520
for her personal pleasure.
327
00:20:19,479 --> 00:20:23,178
Karl worked for Fendi
for 55 years.
328
00:20:23,222 --> 00:20:27,095
His relationship
with the five sisters
329
00:20:27,138 --> 00:20:32,883
was the most energised,
happy, outrageous,
330
00:20:32,927 --> 00:20:36,235
challenging each other,
warm family.
331
00:20:38,280 --> 00:20:41,718
The Fendi sisters
wanted Karl,
332
00:20:41,762 --> 00:20:44,678
because they really wanted to
do a revolution.
333
00:20:44,721 --> 00:20:47,246
And they understood that
he was a genius.
334
00:20:48,551 --> 00:20:49,639
Fur, at the time,
335
00:20:49,683 --> 00:20:51,815
was somebody that a man
336
00:20:51,859 --> 00:20:53,556
would buy for a woman,
337
00:20:53,600 --> 00:20:56,690
to have this woman
like a trophy,
338
00:20:56,733 --> 00:20:58,822
to show the wealth of the men.
339
00:20:58,866 --> 00:21:00,911
The Fendi sisters hated that.
340
00:21:00,955 --> 00:21:05,612
The motto of the company is
"Nothing is Impossible."
341
00:21:05,655 --> 00:21:10,747
In '77, the sisters decided
to start ready-to-wear.
342
00:21:10,791 --> 00:21:13,010
And so, they did this movie,
343
00:21:13,054 --> 00:21:16,666
written by Karl,
and directed by Jacques.
344
00:21:19,539 --> 00:21:22,933
It was their first
professional film, for sure.
345
00:21:22,977 --> 00:21:27,329
It's very simple, you know,
this girl that is a liar,
346
00:21:27,373 --> 00:21:29,810
she said that she was going
to Baden-Baden
347
00:21:29,853 --> 00:21:33,509
to drink the waters
in the spa,
348
00:21:33,553 --> 00:21:35,685
but in reality, she has
a lot of fun in Rome.
349
00:21:38,253 --> 00:21:39,341
I think it's very Karl.
350
00:21:46,435 --> 00:21:50,744
[IN FRENCH] We must
draw on a certain spirit
for the woman of today
351
00:21:50,787 --> 00:21:53,616
and not pay homage to a past
that no longer exists,
352
00:21:53,660 --> 00:21:55,096
that no longer
interests anyone.
353
00:22:13,984 --> 00:22:15,682
Fashion is a thing of desire.
354
00:22:17,074 --> 00:22:18,989
By the end of the '70s,
355
00:22:19,033 --> 00:22:22,384
fashion was becoming
a real business.
356
00:22:22,428 --> 00:22:24,995
It was not
just about creativity,
357
00:22:25,039 --> 00:22:27,824
it was about selling
around the world.
358
00:22:29,913 --> 00:22:31,654
Karl himself was extraordinary
359
00:22:31,698 --> 00:22:34,831
because he was working for
so many different people.
360
00:22:39,401 --> 00:22:42,448
It is a privilege
to be able to live like this.
361
00:22:42,491 --> 00:22:46,713
To fly like a butterfly
from one country to another,
one city to another,
362
00:22:46,756 --> 00:22:47,975
one flower to another.
363
00:22:53,676 --> 00:22:58,681
Karl Lagerfeld,
you know, is big,
really big, and brave,
364
00:22:58,725 --> 00:23:00,770
and bold,
and bright, and brash.
365
00:23:00,814 --> 00:23:02,293
And Houston is too.
366
00:23:02,337 --> 00:23:05,079
And so, today,
we're going to give him
367
00:23:05,122 --> 00:23:07,951
a thoroughly
Houston, Texas welcome.
368
00:23:07,995 --> 00:23:09,953
It's just sort of
the peak of chic, I think.
369
00:23:11,694 --> 00:23:13,392
What did you think
of the airport reception?
370
00:23:13,435 --> 00:23:15,132
Oh, that was
the funniest thing
in the world, huh?
371
00:23:15,176 --> 00:23:16,699
That was really funny,
and it looked divine.
372
00:23:16,743 --> 00:23:17,961
I saw it on TV.
373
00:23:18,005 --> 00:23:19,136
You know, I'm not
the Queen of England,
374
00:23:19,180 --> 00:23:20,137
I'm not really used to that.
375
00:23:21,312 --> 00:23:26,013
Lagerfeld loved it, loved it.
376
00:23:26,056 --> 00:23:28,058
Is this
one of your favourite stores?
377
00:23:28,102 --> 00:23:30,757
Definitely, I spend most of
my husband's money here.
378
00:23:42,508 --> 00:23:46,816
It seemed that
when Karl became
more recognised,
379
00:23:46,860 --> 00:23:48,992
he was becoming
like a business,
380
00:23:49,036 --> 00:23:50,341
building a business.
381
00:23:50,385 --> 00:23:53,432
He became like a royalist.
382
00:23:53,475 --> 00:23:59,873
He was starting to disappear
into this world of grandeur,
383
00:23:59,916 --> 00:24:05,182
and it was like...
almost untouchable Karl.
384
00:24:09,230 --> 00:24:10,927
Did you
decorate all this?
385
00:24:10,971 --> 00:24:12,668
I mean,
it's very 18th century,
there are candles and...
386
00:24:12,712 --> 00:24:14,148
You know,
in a house like this,
with all the panelling,
387
00:24:14,191 --> 00:24:17,194
what else would look okay
except 18th century, huh?
388
00:24:19,109 --> 00:24:21,590
I don't like really
dirty houses, huh?
389
00:24:21,634 --> 00:24:22,939
That's because
you have a busy life.
390
00:24:22,983 --> 00:24:24,550
You need to keep it orderly.
391
00:24:24,593 --> 00:24:26,682
How many lines of clothing
are you working on?
392
00:24:26,726 --> 00:24:27,901
I don't
even know, myself.
393
00:24:27,944 --> 00:24:29,642
I have lots
of fashion families
394
00:24:29,685 --> 00:24:31,426
and all
my different businesses.
I think it's very funny, huh?
395
00:24:31,470 --> 00:24:33,472
They're all jealous
of each other,
it's very good,
396
00:24:33,515 --> 00:24:35,256
and I all play them
one against the other.
397
00:24:35,299 --> 00:24:36,605
I think it's very amusing.
398
00:24:36,649 --> 00:24:37,693
Because I think
I like them all
very much,
399
00:24:37,737 --> 00:24:39,390
but it's very good that
400
00:24:39,434 --> 00:24:41,305
they are stimulated by an idea
401
00:24:41,349 --> 00:24:42,393
what they think
the others are.
402
00:24:42,437 --> 00:24:43,830
Because they hardly know
each other.
403
00:24:43,873 --> 00:24:45,658
Now, I have to
ask you about Chanel,
404
00:24:45,701 --> 00:24:47,747
because I'm sure
everybody has asked you
about Chanel.
405
00:24:47,790 --> 00:24:49,488
You start officially
in January '83?
406
00:24:49,531 --> 00:24:50,750
Yes, exactly.
Or have you
already started?
407
00:24:50,793 --> 00:24:51,881
No, no, no.
No, no, no, no, no.
408
00:24:51,925 --> 00:24:52,969
You're going to be
a celebrity,
409
00:24:53,013 --> 00:24:54,014
I'm sure, to a certain extent.
410
00:24:54,057 --> 00:24:55,232
I don't know. But, you know,
411
00:24:55,276 --> 00:24:56,407
what I really like
about the thing
412
00:24:56,451 --> 00:24:57,626
is doing the thing.
413
00:24:57,670 --> 00:24:59,106
One business
is quite powerful,
414
00:24:59,149 --> 00:25:00,977
let's say Fendi is
quite powerful in a way,
415
00:25:01,021 --> 00:25:02,675
Chloe... but Chanel
is even more powerful.
416
00:25:02,718 --> 00:25:04,067
And what I'd like
is the power
of all of them, huh?
417
00:25:20,344 --> 00:25:25,349
MARIE-LOUISE:
The idea of hiring Karl
came to me in '73 first.
418
00:25:27,134 --> 00:25:30,050
I proposed to Chanel
to hire Karl,
419
00:25:30,877 --> 00:25:32,792
but, as Karl said,
420
00:25:32,835 --> 00:25:33,923
"Ce n'etait pas le moment."
421
00:25:33,967 --> 00:25:35,664
It was not the right time.
422
00:25:35,708 --> 00:25:37,927
So, we had to wait
nearly ten years.
423
00:25:37,971 --> 00:25:40,190
There were a lot
of legal problems
424
00:25:40,234 --> 00:25:44,455
because all these contracts
he had with other brands.
425
00:25:44,499 --> 00:25:46,806
And so, he had to get free
for Chanel
426
00:25:46,849 --> 00:25:50,374
but not losing
the other things.
427
00:25:50,418 --> 00:25:53,900
At the time, we didn't do
this kind of business revival.
428
00:25:53,943 --> 00:25:56,337
And I accepted
because the owners of Chanel
429
00:25:56,380 --> 00:25:59,122
are people I love,
and it was a challenge.
430
00:25:59,166 --> 00:26:01,385
People said, "They are mad.
431
00:26:01,429 --> 00:26:04,040
"They are mad,
hiring that man."
432
00:26:04,084 --> 00:26:06,826
And his friends said,
"Don't take this old house."
433
00:26:09,219 --> 00:26:12,353
At that time,
Chanel was only Number 5.
434
00:26:13,354 --> 00:26:17,227
99.9 percent of the turnover.
435
00:26:20,361 --> 00:26:23,320
It was like a Protestant bank,
436
00:26:23,364 --> 00:26:26,541
there was
no creativity at all.
437
00:26:26,585 --> 00:26:31,372
Chanel was dressing up
very classic women,
438
00:26:31,415 --> 00:26:33,766
elegant,
who loved their habits,
439
00:26:33,809 --> 00:26:35,681
and it was for us, Chanel,
440
00:26:35,724 --> 00:26:38,901
it was our minister of health,
Simone Veil,
441
00:26:38,945 --> 00:26:40,903
who was always dressed
in Chanel.
442
00:26:42,165 --> 00:26:45,125
When Karl took over,
we were all excited,
443
00:26:45,168 --> 00:26:46,648
"What is he going to do?"
444
00:26:47,693 --> 00:26:49,433
There, Karl,
445
00:26:50,957 --> 00:26:52,698
doing Chloe,
446
00:26:52,741 --> 00:26:57,050
dancing and going out
at nightclubs,
Le Sept, tout ca,
447
00:26:57,093 --> 00:27:00,401
and taking over
that old house,
448
00:27:00,444 --> 00:27:05,362
with old clients,
and with old women selling.
449
00:27:05,406 --> 00:27:08,365
Everything was old.
450
00:27:08,409 --> 00:27:10,977
It was beautifully old.
451
00:27:12,935 --> 00:27:15,024
When I arrived,
let's put it nicely,
452
00:27:15,068 --> 00:27:18,114
the house was asleep,
it was Sleeping Beauty!
453
00:27:18,158 --> 00:27:23,467
Because respect and homage
are not good
for a couture house.
454
00:27:23,511 --> 00:27:25,644
In her youth,
Chanel was a very eccentric,
455
00:27:25,687 --> 00:27:27,384
wild, revolutionary woman,
456
00:27:28,908 --> 00:27:31,040
who had many lovers.
457
00:27:31,084 --> 00:27:33,913
She is considered the woman
who invented the modern woman,
458
00:27:33,956 --> 00:27:36,350
battling against everybody
and fighting
against everybody.
459
00:27:36,393 --> 00:27:39,179
That is exciting, that is fun.
460
00:27:39,222 --> 00:27:42,791
But after the stupid thing
she said about the knee
and the miniskirt,
461
00:27:42,835 --> 00:27:44,793
from then on,
in the early '60s
462
00:27:44,837 --> 00:27:46,099
till her death in the '70s,
463
00:27:46,142 --> 00:27:48,405
she was mean, mean bitch, huh?
464
00:27:48,449 --> 00:27:50,233
I have nothing against
mean bitches,
465
00:27:50,277 --> 00:27:52,409
being quite mean myself,
that's not the problem.
466
00:27:52,453 --> 00:27:54,629
But lesson-giving,
and I hate people
467
00:27:54,673 --> 00:27:55,978
when they give lessons.
468
00:27:58,154 --> 00:28:01,680
MARIE-LOUISE:
American Vogue
in '83 asked Karl,
469
00:28:01,723 --> 00:28:03,769
"How do you revive
an old house?"
470
00:28:03,812 --> 00:28:05,074
And Karl said...
471
00:28:05,118 --> 00:28:07,120
Karl replied,
"To revive an old house,
472
00:28:07,163 --> 00:28:09,470
"you must treat her
like a whore."
473
00:28:09,513 --> 00:28:13,953
Well, this is Karl's way
to speak, it's not mine,
474
00:28:13,996 --> 00:28:15,868
but I think he is right.
475
00:28:15,911 --> 00:28:18,871
You know, it was
his destiny to do Chanel.
476
00:28:18,914 --> 00:28:24,746
He had all that
pent-up vision and desire.
477
00:28:31,753 --> 00:28:37,063
MARIE-LOUISE: The first show
was in January '83,
in Rue Cambon,
478
00:28:37,106 --> 00:28:40,153
and all Parisians
and worldwide journalists
479
00:28:40,196 --> 00:28:42,285
wanted to come to the show.
480
00:28:42,329 --> 00:28:46,115
And the people invited
were queuing in Rue Cambon
481
00:28:46,159 --> 00:28:50,163
to get in,
like in the biggest years
482
00:28:50,206 --> 00:28:52,643
of the old
Mademoiselle Chanel.
483
00:28:54,994 --> 00:28:56,082
It was exciting.
484
00:28:57,300 --> 00:28:59,259
It was suspense.
485
00:29:00,564 --> 00:29:02,697
And the one who wanted
to look like
486
00:29:02,741 --> 00:29:05,787
if they were excited
and they were willing,
487
00:29:05,831 --> 00:29:09,138
and it was gonna be good,
and the ones were thinking,
488
00:29:09,182 --> 00:29:11,097
"We're gonna see
what he's going to do."
489
00:29:30,856 --> 00:29:33,641
MARIE-LOUISE:
He launched this show
with the music
490
00:29:33,684 --> 00:29:36,949
of Douce France,
de Charles Trenet.
491
00:29:36,992 --> 00:29:38,951
And this was very, very new,
492
00:29:38,994 --> 00:29:42,781
because never a sound of music
at Chanel, never.
493
00:29:44,565 --> 00:29:48,134
Three girls with three suits,
494
00:29:48,177 --> 00:29:51,006
bleu, blanc, rouge.
495
00:29:51,050 --> 00:29:54,880
I don't have to translate,
bleu, blanc, rouge.
496
00:29:54,923 --> 00:29:59,362
It was very moving,
very... really moving.
497
00:30:01,974 --> 00:30:04,019
The first show,
the way he used red...
498
00:30:06,065 --> 00:30:06,892
how cool.
499
00:30:12,506 --> 00:30:15,857
I remember those images
of Ines de la Fressange
500
00:30:15,901 --> 00:30:20,862
walking and transmitting
in such a powerful way
501
00:30:20,906 --> 00:30:23,299
his essence,
and the essence of Chanel.
502
00:30:28,870 --> 00:30:32,743
The Chanel image was a lady
with her hair in a bun...
503
00:30:32,787 --> 00:30:35,834
Not at all modern.
504
00:30:35,877 --> 00:30:39,402
But here I was, 25 years old.
505
00:30:39,446 --> 00:30:46,061
He wanted to show that
a 25-year-old
could wear Chanel.
506
00:30:52,851 --> 00:30:56,289
A very colourful tweed.
507
00:30:56,332 --> 00:30:59,379
He puts a red and white
checked shirt underneath.
508
00:30:59,422 --> 00:31:02,338
An immediate statement
that he's modernizing tweed.
509
00:31:02,382 --> 00:31:05,298
Tweed had become
a pejorative term.
510
00:31:08,736 --> 00:31:15,264
There is a photo of Chanel
with a cigarette
wearing a similar dress.
511
00:31:15,308 --> 00:31:22,097
The funny thing is
when you see it like this,
you say, "That's so Chanel."
512
00:31:22,141 --> 00:31:24,317
But, no, it's so Karl.
513
00:31:24,360 --> 00:31:27,015
To make
fake embroidered jewellery.
514
00:31:27,059 --> 00:31:30,105
A sense of humour
is not Chanel.
515
00:31:37,069 --> 00:31:39,723
Oh, see there,
the butterfly
attached to the back.
516
00:31:39,767 --> 00:31:41,987
Very unlike Chanel
517
00:31:42,030 --> 00:31:43,858
to do a little joke
like that...
518
00:31:43,902 --> 00:31:45,077
But it's so Karl.
519
00:31:51,170 --> 00:31:54,042
MARIE-LOUISE:
The old ladies say
it's not the same,
520
00:31:56,349 --> 00:31:58,786
and the young loved.
521
00:31:58,829 --> 00:32:01,006
So, of course,
we had criticism,
522
00:32:01,049 --> 00:32:04,096
but we had a lot of success.
523
00:32:04,139 --> 00:32:05,880
It was
the evening dresses
524
00:32:05,924 --> 00:32:07,838
that stimulated
the greatest response.
525
00:32:10,363 --> 00:32:13,105
By the time the traditional
last dress appeared,
526
00:32:13,148 --> 00:32:15,237
a stunning white wedding gown,
527
00:32:15,281 --> 00:32:17,587
it was clear that Lagerfeld
had scored a triumph.
528
00:32:19,720 --> 00:32:24,551
C'etait genial, we knew...
new life.
529
00:32:32,167 --> 00:32:35,518
The concept of taking
a younger designer
530
00:32:35,562 --> 00:32:39,261
and putting them
at an older house,
531
00:32:39,305 --> 00:32:43,439
and having them
re-invigorate it
was an absolute new idea.
532
00:32:43,483 --> 00:32:45,398
Karl was the first.
533
00:32:45,441 --> 00:32:50,577
And he paved the way
for what is now
standard practice.
534
00:32:57,758 --> 00:32:59,368
This is cute, very Chanel.
535
00:32:59,412 --> 00:33:00,630
Veronica is adorable.
536
00:33:00,674 --> 00:33:01,588
It's Veronique.
537
00:33:01,631 --> 00:33:02,981
We got it wrong
with this one...
538
00:33:03,024 --> 00:33:05,157
Yes, no, that's not the best.
539
00:33:06,027 --> 00:33:07,898
A bit slutty.
540
00:33:07,942 --> 00:33:09,683
Yes...
541
00:33:09,726 --> 00:33:12,338
It was a time when we were
doing huge collections.
542
00:33:12,381 --> 00:33:14,775
Two haute couture,
two ready-to-wear.
543
00:33:14,818 --> 00:33:17,082
We didn't stop working,
it was a lot of work.
544
00:33:17,125 --> 00:33:19,998
Don't we have a paler pink?
545
00:33:20,041 --> 00:33:24,785
Ines was already very chic
when Karl met her,
546
00:33:24,828 --> 00:33:29,833
and she was a huge inspiration
for our collections.
547
00:33:29,877 --> 00:33:31,835
Is the Ines idea your idea?
548
00:33:32,706 --> 00:33:34,142
We don't know anymore.
549
00:33:34,186 --> 00:33:37,406
Maybe at the beginning.
Now it's just a Chanel idea.
550
00:33:37,450 --> 00:33:41,932
After the revolution,
were you looking for
a rather natural woman,
551
00:33:41,976 --> 00:33:43,673
for a rather
sophisticated house?
552
00:33:43,717 --> 00:33:46,241
But... the House
is not that sophisticated,
553
00:33:46,285 --> 00:33:47,982
and Ines is not that natural.
554
00:33:48,026 --> 00:33:50,289
She is natural in a way
that is very studied.
555
00:33:50,332 --> 00:33:52,030
This is the essence of art.
556
00:33:54,032 --> 00:33:57,600
MARIE-LOUISE:
He decided to hire
an in-house model
557
00:33:57,644 --> 00:34:01,039
who will be exclusive
to Chanel,
558
00:34:01,082 --> 00:34:05,086
so, Ines was
the face of Chanel.
559
00:34:06,435 --> 00:34:10,048
That was one of
the big, big ideas of Karl.
560
00:34:21,842 --> 00:34:24,758
For Karl, Ines was a Parisian.
561
00:34:24,801 --> 00:34:27,848
Karl liked everything Ines,
at that time.
562
00:34:35,508 --> 00:34:39,773
The way she walked, she was
taking it in front of her,
563
00:34:39,816 --> 00:34:42,950
and that's what he wanted,
and she was perfect for that.
564
00:34:46,214 --> 00:34:49,565
She moved like she moved
in the street, her allure.
565
00:34:49,609 --> 00:34:51,741
She had that sort of knack.
566
00:34:56,398 --> 00:34:59,923
Often,
a new type of beauty
will come along
567
00:34:59,967 --> 00:35:03,013
that resets everything.
568
00:35:03,057 --> 00:35:06,191
And I just remember thinking,
"Wow, who is that?"
569
00:35:18,768 --> 00:35:20,118
You kept the spirit.
570
00:35:22,076 --> 00:35:26,298
What we have to keep
is what people think
was the spirit.
571
00:35:31,825 --> 00:35:33,566
When I started doing Chanel,
I said to myself,
572
00:35:33,609 --> 00:35:36,351
"You have to do
the same thing
and the opposite."
573
00:35:38,397 --> 00:35:40,138
You have to play hot and cold.
574
00:35:43,663 --> 00:35:46,883
You have to both
excite and infuriate
575
00:35:46,927 --> 00:35:48,972
the High Priestesses
of fashion.
576
00:35:49,016 --> 00:35:51,540
And if Mme Chanel
was turning in her grave,
577
00:35:51,584 --> 00:35:53,977
it was good.
It proved she wasn't dead.
578
00:35:55,892 --> 00:35:58,156
The very short skirts,
the wide shoulders,
579
00:35:58,199 --> 00:36:02,421
the jewels too big,
a bit too much of everything.
580
00:36:02,464 --> 00:36:06,990
But it was time to do it.
It re-established
the image of Chanel.
581
00:36:08,644 --> 00:36:12,387
The first few seasons
of Chanel were startling.
582
00:36:16,261 --> 00:36:20,700
I remember the obsession
with Chanel at that time.
583
00:36:20,743 --> 00:36:23,572
I mean, everyone,
it was "fashion."
584
00:36:29,796 --> 00:36:32,755
The 1980s was
a moment of exuberance,
585
00:36:32,799 --> 00:36:34,757
like the 18th century
all over again,
586
00:36:34,801 --> 00:36:37,934
before Marie Antoinette
had her head chopped off.
587
00:36:37,978 --> 00:36:41,024
You felt that, you know,
it was lux, it was expensive,
588
00:36:41,068 --> 00:36:44,158
it was bigger, it was better,
it was, "Greed is good".
589
00:37:01,697 --> 00:37:03,699
How many designs do you make?
590
00:37:03,743 --> 00:37:05,658
I don't count them,
thank goodness.
591
00:37:05,701 --> 00:37:08,878
I read
it was 6,000 designs a year.
592
00:37:08,922 --> 00:37:11,272
Perhaps. But you know,
I'm not the one writing
those articles about me.
593
00:37:11,316 --> 00:37:14,971
Maybe sometimes
I can do 50 in a day,
594
00:37:15,015 --> 00:37:19,324
but designing is not always
a systematic process.
595
00:37:19,367 --> 00:37:21,674
It's also
somewhat improvisational.
596
00:37:29,769 --> 00:37:31,118
It all starts with paper.
597
00:37:31,161 --> 00:37:33,512
My favourite material in life
is paper.
598
00:37:33,555 --> 00:37:35,644
Because when I was a child,
in the years after the war,
599
00:37:35,688 --> 00:37:38,256
paper in Europe was not
a thing you could get.
600
00:37:40,867 --> 00:37:42,999
I make a very precise sketch,
601
00:37:43,043 --> 00:37:45,088
with all the details,
all the proportions.
602
00:37:45,132 --> 00:37:46,699
And then the people who used
to work with me
603
00:37:46,742 --> 00:37:49,832
can read everything
like you can
read a page of writing.
604
00:37:49,876 --> 00:37:51,747
Everything is there.
605
00:37:51,791 --> 00:37:54,881
And this helps me also to do
things in Rome, in New York,
606
00:37:54,924 --> 00:37:56,926
in Paris, at the same time.
If not, I couldn't do that.
607
00:37:59,712 --> 00:38:03,106
When I was
a young girl, I really
always wanted to go
608
00:38:03,150 --> 00:38:06,371
on the ateliers
when Karl was in Rome.
609
00:38:06,414 --> 00:38:10,331
It was kind of a magic trick
that he was doing.
610
00:38:10,375 --> 00:38:14,161
From a blank page,
you would see
the magic happening.
611
00:38:14,204 --> 00:38:17,773
He was so fast in designing
and sketching,
612
00:38:17,817 --> 00:38:20,036
like he was fast
with his words.
613
00:38:21,777 --> 00:38:22,909
You have the idea,
614
00:38:22,952 --> 00:38:24,519
but to make it happen,
615
00:38:24,563 --> 00:38:26,478
you have to have
an incredible workforce
616
00:38:26,521 --> 00:38:30,395
with immense skill,
physical effort and patience
that I don't have.
617
00:38:33,963 --> 00:38:36,618
I want it to be good
for these people,
618
00:38:36,662 --> 00:38:38,664
the ones putting
all the effort in.
619
00:38:38,707 --> 00:38:42,537
Because I don't spend
100 hours on a dress,
I just design it.
620
00:38:48,282 --> 00:38:53,461
[IN FRENCH] I was
developing toiles based on
Karl's sketches for 52 years
621
00:38:53,505 --> 00:38:55,333
and that was
nothing but pleasure.
622
00:38:56,203 --> 00:38:59,641
The first toile I showed Karl
623
00:38:59,685 --> 00:39:04,733
needed very little retouching.
624
00:39:04,777 --> 00:39:10,739
And as a result,
I stayed with him
until I retired.
625
00:39:12,654 --> 00:39:16,005
To not understand
his sketches, really,
you had to be stupid.
626
00:39:18,181 --> 00:39:22,142
Every sketch was
from the heart,
627
00:39:22,185 --> 00:39:24,318
with a lot of inspiration.
628
00:39:24,362 --> 00:39:27,495
And often from the outside,
people would say to me...
629
00:39:27,539 --> 00:39:30,977
"My God, I don't know
how you can interpret
Karl's sketches
630
00:39:32,152 --> 00:39:36,330
because they seem... rushed."
631
00:39:36,374 --> 00:39:42,336
But in fact, for example,
when I look at this sketch,
it is obvious to me.
632
00:39:42,380 --> 00:39:46,384
I can really feel
the shape of the dress.
633
00:39:46,427 --> 00:39:50,170
I can tell from
these little pencil strokes
that it will be embroidered,
634
00:39:50,213 --> 00:39:52,520
how the corseting works.
635
00:39:59,614 --> 00:40:03,139
So I am convinced that
fashion designers like Karl
636
00:40:03,183 --> 00:40:06,055
are very rare, very gifted.
637
00:40:14,063 --> 00:40:16,675
His premieres could
absolutely interpret
638
00:40:16,718 --> 00:40:18,981
the sketch perfectly.
639
00:40:19,025 --> 00:40:22,724
But there were always
adjustments.
640
00:40:22,768 --> 00:40:26,772
The line and the proportion
for Karl was everything.
641
00:40:29,165 --> 00:40:34,606
He would go, "I am sorry,
ladies, just a millimetre.
642
00:40:34,649 --> 00:40:36,477
"Just a millimetre here.
643
00:40:36,521 --> 00:40:38,218
"Look at my sketch."
644
00:40:38,261 --> 00:40:39,219
And he'd always be right.
645
00:40:42,004 --> 00:40:43,484
It's prettier that way, Anita.
646
00:40:43,528 --> 00:40:45,530
Do you have
more fittings this morning?
647
00:40:45,573 --> 00:40:46,879
No, not this morning, Karl.
648
00:40:46,922 --> 00:40:48,141
We did everything
yesterday, too.
649
00:40:48,184 --> 00:40:50,404
Yes, we did a fair amount.
650
00:40:50,448 --> 00:40:52,145
Until everyone
was totally exhausted.
651
00:40:54,539 --> 00:40:56,454
I had
plenty of people around me
652
00:40:56,497 --> 00:41:00,588
who told me,
"He doesn't seem too friendly,
your boss, that German."
653
00:41:00,632 --> 00:41:04,244
Because he was
stiff, straight.
654
00:41:04,287 --> 00:41:06,812
When he spoke,
it was staccato.
655
00:41:06,855 --> 00:41:09,379
But in reality, he was
the creme de la creme of men.
656
00:41:09,423 --> 00:41:11,381
I judge it that way.
657
00:41:16,256 --> 00:41:17,823
Hello, Karl!
658
00:41:21,566 --> 00:41:23,916
I won't kiss everyone
because there are
too many of you.
659
00:41:23,959 --> 00:41:25,831
It'll take too long,
and we have to work.
660
00:41:29,095 --> 00:41:31,140
I've always had
very down to earth dreams,
661
00:41:31,184 --> 00:41:34,709
so it's possible to
make them come true
one way or another.
662
00:41:34,753 --> 00:41:38,017
But, you know, the tragedy of
making a dream come true
is that you need another one.
663
00:41:42,151 --> 00:41:43,805
A stone's throw
from Rue Cambon
664
00:41:43,849 --> 00:41:45,285
on the Champs Elysees,
665
00:41:45,328 --> 00:41:48,070
another team is waiting
for Karl's own brand, KL.
666
00:41:53,859 --> 00:41:58,254
My collaboration
with Karl
begins with an internship.
667
00:41:59,647 --> 00:42:01,649
I'm 19 years old.
668
00:42:01,693 --> 00:42:04,434
After one week or ten days,
669
00:42:04,478 --> 00:42:08,743
I'm asked to end
this internship.
670
00:42:09,788 --> 00:42:10,789
And I cannot.
671
00:42:10,832 --> 00:42:11,790
I go back home,
672
00:42:11,833 --> 00:42:14,140
but I'm back on Monday.
673
00:42:14,183 --> 00:42:15,794
I was already in love.
674
00:42:18,013 --> 00:42:20,015
I met Karl here,
in New York.
675
00:42:20,059 --> 00:42:21,669
My mum had always said,
676
00:42:21,713 --> 00:42:24,019
"The shoes that people
are wearing
tell you how they are."
677
00:42:24,063 --> 00:42:26,848
And so,
I was looking at his shoes
when I walked in,
678
00:42:26,892 --> 00:42:28,241
and our eyes met
because he had been
679
00:42:28,284 --> 00:42:29,721
looking at my shoes.
680
00:42:29,764 --> 00:42:32,158
And we started laughing.
681
00:42:32,201 --> 00:42:35,117
You never know
exactly what he sees in you.
682
00:42:35,161 --> 00:42:37,250
What I think he saw the most
683
00:42:37,293 --> 00:42:40,209
is that I was having
so much fun.
684
00:42:40,253 --> 00:42:41,863
This is something
he was generating.
685
00:42:41,907 --> 00:42:45,606
He had kind of a fluid,
an electric fluid,
686
00:42:45,650 --> 00:42:49,567
that was bringing you high.
687
00:42:52,395 --> 00:42:54,441
We all started
extremely young.
688
00:42:56,182 --> 00:42:59,098
We were more as like a family.
689
00:43:00,534 --> 00:43:02,144
People in my studios
are like my friends,
690
00:43:02,188 --> 00:43:03,363
you know, like my family.
691
00:43:03,406 --> 00:43:04,930
Nobody can fire them.
692
00:43:04,973 --> 00:43:06,888
It's like a closed world.
693
00:43:07,933 --> 00:43:09,848
Karl was like my dad.
694
00:43:09,891 --> 00:43:11,153
I never spoke about it,
695
00:43:11,197 --> 00:43:12,807
because he hated people
696
00:43:12,851 --> 00:43:14,679
conceiving him as a dad.
697
00:43:14,722 --> 00:43:17,507
But Karl was my dad.
He educated me.
698
00:43:17,551 --> 00:43:19,118
Every night, we went
to the bookstore.
699
00:43:19,161 --> 00:43:21,642
I would say something
during a fitting,
700
00:43:21,686 --> 00:43:24,210
and I would say,
"But, Karl, remember
we saw that painting?"
701
00:43:24,253 --> 00:43:25,777
So, then we would go
to the bookstore,
702
00:43:25,820 --> 00:43:27,126
and all of a sudden,
these books would start
703
00:43:27,169 --> 00:43:28,431
falling in front of me.
He'd say,
704
00:43:28,475 --> 00:43:29,868
"This will tell you about
what you were asking.
705
00:43:29,911 --> 00:43:31,304
"This will tell you about
what you were asking."
706
00:43:31,347 --> 00:43:34,133
He'd buy two for me,
and maybe four for him,
707
00:43:34,176 --> 00:43:36,788
and I was to tear out one
and keep the other.
708
00:43:36,831 --> 00:43:38,267
Because he believed in
tearing up
709
00:43:38,311 --> 00:43:39,791
and gluing
and making collages.
710
00:43:39,834 --> 00:43:41,357
I made collages non-stop.
711
00:43:44,317 --> 00:43:46,711
Each one of Karl's studios
were different.
712
00:43:46,754 --> 00:43:48,190
If you were in
the Lagerfeld studio,
713
00:43:48,234 --> 00:43:50,758
they'd say,
"Oh, those people
at Chanel, oh, God."
714
00:43:50,802 --> 00:43:53,065
The people at Chanel
would say, "Oh, Left Bank,
715
00:43:53,108 --> 00:43:56,416
"Rive Gauche people
at Lagerfeld."
716
00:43:56,459 --> 00:43:59,724
Jacques de Bascher was coming
pretty often to the office.
717
00:43:59,767 --> 00:44:02,727
As it was really
this family atmosphere,
718
00:44:02,770 --> 00:44:05,686
everybody was welcome
to the studio.
719
00:44:05,730 --> 00:44:08,907
He would sit close to Karl
or close to someone else
720
00:44:08,950 --> 00:44:11,997
and discuss
what he was seeing.
721
00:44:12,040 --> 00:44:15,522
He was often
passing by also
the backstage
722
00:44:15,565 --> 00:44:17,002
at the time of the show.
723
00:44:19,569 --> 00:44:24,270
Coming from the nightclub
a bit drunk, a bit high.
724
00:44:27,229 --> 00:44:31,538
He was putting a bit of a mess
in the backstage.
725
00:44:31,581 --> 00:44:35,542
But that was part of life
with Karl.
726
00:44:35,585 --> 00:44:39,764
And Karl was super happy
to have Jacques around.
727
00:44:47,206 --> 00:44:52,733
You have said that Jacques
wanted to destroy himself.
728
00:44:52,777 --> 00:44:55,431
I'm not good at that because
it requires a certain talent.
729
00:44:55,475 --> 00:44:57,477
I admire people
who can destroy themselves.
730
00:45:00,610 --> 00:45:03,004
But it was a great love.
731
00:45:03,048 --> 00:45:05,572
Yes, but not in
the sense that you mean.
732
00:45:08,836 --> 00:45:12,144
It was more like
father and son because
he was much younger than me.
733
00:45:13,536 --> 00:45:15,495
That's what's peculiar
about the story.
734
00:45:17,410 --> 00:45:19,107
I don't think
there was any sexuality
735
00:45:19,151 --> 00:45:21,370
between Karl
and Jacques de Bascher,
736
00:45:21,414 --> 00:45:25,287
and it has never been
sexuality between them.
737
00:45:25,331 --> 00:45:28,377
Karl was not interested
by sex.
738
00:45:29,204 --> 00:45:30,902
He was too much in control
739
00:45:30,945 --> 00:45:33,818
and he has been educated
in a strict way.
740
00:45:33,861 --> 00:45:35,907
And he was not
letting himself go.
741
00:45:42,478 --> 00:45:44,567
Mr. Lagerfeld, be honest now.
742
00:45:44,611 --> 00:45:47,092
Has there been a situation
where you didn't have
everything under control?
743
00:45:47,135 --> 00:45:49,529
[IN FRENCH] Yes,
but you learn a lot more
from such situations
744
00:45:49,572 --> 00:45:51,313
than the ones when
you're too in control.
745
00:45:54,055 --> 00:45:57,015
You occasionally need
to have a situation that
doesn't go as planned.
746
00:46:07,025 --> 00:46:11,638
Karl got apart with Ines
at the end of the '80s.
747
00:46:13,901 --> 00:46:18,079
Ines was in love with Luigi,
748
00:46:18,123 --> 00:46:20,516
who became her husband,
749
00:46:20,560 --> 00:46:23,606
and she had less time
for Karl.
750
00:46:23,650 --> 00:46:28,611
And he started
getting jealous of Luigi.
751
00:46:28,655 --> 00:46:31,745
I read in
Le Parisien Libere
that Ines de la Fressange
752
00:46:31,789 --> 00:46:33,791
will not be presenting
Chanel's Autumn/Winter
collection.
753
00:46:33,834 --> 00:46:35,531
for the first time
in a very long time.
754
00:46:35,575 --> 00:46:40,710
Does she have the flu
or is it a falling out
with Karl Lagerfeld?
755
00:46:40,754 --> 00:46:43,757
It is said that
Ines de la Fressange
is becoming
756
00:46:43,801 --> 00:46:45,628
more and more influential,
and that this bothers you.
757
00:46:45,672 --> 00:46:47,717
Let me ask you the question.
758
00:46:47,761 --> 00:46:50,198
As long as I'm around,
no one takes influence
away from me.
759
00:46:50,242 --> 00:46:54,028
If she's here,
it's thanks to me,
since it was my idea.
760
00:46:54,072 --> 00:46:56,552
I found that she was
not in great shape lately.
761
00:46:56,596 --> 00:47:01,862
She's had some personal issues
and it's better she recovers.
762
00:47:04,430 --> 00:47:06,693
They divorced.
It was very difficult
763
00:47:06,736 --> 00:47:09,609
because I was in charge
with Ines' contract.
764
00:47:09,652 --> 00:47:13,831
So, I had to ink the divorce.
765
00:47:13,874 --> 00:47:16,398
It was like every break
with Karl,
766
00:47:16,442 --> 00:47:18,139
when it was with
someone he loved.
767
00:47:18,183 --> 00:47:19,662
It was pretty brutal.
768
00:47:20,881 --> 00:47:24,363
The moment he would say,
"Okay, let's finish,
769
00:47:24,406 --> 00:47:26,104
"I won't see you anymore,"
770
00:47:26,147 --> 00:47:27,627
he was really managing
771
00:47:28,715 --> 00:47:32,023
to never cross your path
anymore.
772
00:47:32,066 --> 00:47:35,026
He was very...
How can I say?
773
00:47:35,069 --> 00:47:36,592
He didn't want to talk,
he didn't want to
774
00:47:36,636 --> 00:47:38,029
approach these problems.
775
00:47:39,421 --> 00:47:40,683
A bit immature.
776
00:47:41,728 --> 00:47:42,860
Very childish.
777
00:47:45,166 --> 00:47:49,823
I think it was maybe
the more fragile side of Karl.
778
00:47:53,087 --> 00:47:54,480
You know,
everything changes,
everything.
779
00:47:54,523 --> 00:47:58,049
I mean, there are
very few events in a life
780
00:47:58,092 --> 00:48:01,182
that cannot
not change your life.
781
00:48:16,719 --> 00:48:19,418
[IN FRENCH] People who
think they know all about AIDS
without having experienced it,
782
00:48:19,461 --> 00:48:21,072
that doesn't impress me.
783
00:48:22,377 --> 00:48:24,249
Because the reality
was atrocious.
784
00:48:30,429 --> 00:48:33,736
We started losing some friends
and more friends.
785
00:48:36,000 --> 00:48:39,786
Somehow it would seem
that all the people
786
00:48:39,829 --> 00:48:44,269
in the creative world
were being attacked,
787
00:48:44,312 --> 00:48:46,793
maybe more than other people.
788
00:48:46,836 --> 00:48:49,883
[IN FRENCH] I had
a young person in the workshop
to help me make the toiles.
789
00:48:49,927 --> 00:48:52,059
He was 26. Sick.
790
00:48:54,105 --> 00:48:55,323
It was a massacre.
791
00:48:57,325 --> 00:48:58,544
Dark time.
792
00:49:02,504 --> 00:49:04,332
Now, this rumour about Jacques
793
00:49:04,376 --> 00:49:07,901
and this moment of when
one began to be aware
794
00:49:07,945 --> 00:49:10,295
of when he was ill.
795
00:49:10,338 --> 00:49:12,210
My first trip with Karl,
796
00:49:12,253 --> 00:49:14,212
Jacques called to check,
and he says, "Are you okay?"
797
00:49:14,255 --> 00:49:16,040
And I said, "Yes, I'm fine."
798
00:49:16,083 --> 00:49:17,911
I said, "But Karl's next door,
you've got the wrong number."
799
00:49:17,955 --> 00:49:18,999
I mean, I wasn't thinking
800
00:49:19,043 --> 00:49:21,262
that Jacques de Bascher's
gonna call me.
801
00:49:21,306 --> 00:49:22,916
He goes, "No, no,
I'm calling you.
802
00:49:22,960 --> 00:49:24,265
"I just want to make sure
you're okay,
and how are things going?
803
00:49:24,309 --> 00:49:26,267
"You just have to get into
the pace of things."
804
00:49:26,311 --> 00:49:27,747
Then he made a joke
or something,
805
00:49:27,790 --> 00:49:29,401
he goes, "Make sure he doesn't
leave all those cookies
806
00:49:29,444 --> 00:49:31,316
"underneath his bed,"
or something like that.
807
00:49:31,359 --> 00:49:32,795
And I said,
"What are you talking about?"
808
00:49:32,839 --> 00:49:34,145
He goes,
"No, no, no, sometimes
809
00:49:34,188 --> 00:49:36,408
"he has bad eating habits,
so, check on him."
810
00:49:36,451 --> 00:49:38,149
But he did these kind of
things with me,
811
00:49:38,192 --> 00:49:40,673
so that was like him saying,
812
00:49:40,716 --> 00:49:43,893
"You're gonna have to start
traveling with him a lot."
813
00:49:43,937 --> 00:49:46,984
I think there was also a sense
that something's not right.
814
00:49:47,027 --> 00:49:50,074
And all of a sudden,
Jacques arrived at the studio,
815
00:49:50,117 --> 00:49:52,554
and I just like jumped up
and ran to him,
816
00:49:52,598 --> 00:49:54,643
and hugged him.
817
00:49:54,687 --> 00:49:58,125
And he sensed that maybe
I had heard something,
818
00:49:58,169 --> 00:50:01,302
and he literally just kind of
like pulled back a touch,
819
00:50:01,346 --> 00:50:02,521
tapped me on the shoulder,
and he goes,
820
00:50:02,564 --> 00:50:04,436
"Don't worry, darling,
I'm fine."
821
00:50:04,479 --> 00:50:05,698
And then I knew it was true.
822
00:50:06,394 --> 00:50:07,308
That's kind of sad.
823
00:50:29,722 --> 00:50:32,203
MARIE-LOUISE:
When Jacques de Bascher
was ill,
824
00:50:32,246 --> 00:50:33,639
no one spoke about that.
825
00:50:34,683 --> 00:50:37,338
No, no one spoke
in the studio.
826
00:50:38,818 --> 00:50:41,777
Karl came every day, as usual.
827
00:50:43,518 --> 00:50:46,913
Did he need us to show
our concern about Jacques
828
00:50:46,956 --> 00:50:48,915
when he came to the studio?
829
00:50:48,958 --> 00:50:50,221
The answer was no.
830
00:50:51,004 --> 00:50:53,354
We were his relief
831
00:50:53,398 --> 00:50:55,530
from what had
happened to him all day.
832
00:51:01,710 --> 00:51:04,017
When Jacques was ill,
833
00:51:05,366 --> 00:51:09,588
Karl was amazing and exemplary
with his friend.
834
00:51:13,331 --> 00:51:17,204
Almost every night,
he would go and visit him
at the hospital.
835
00:51:17,248 --> 00:51:24,733
He would ask us
to do the fitting earlier,
something that he never did.
836
00:51:24,777 --> 00:51:29,564
And then at the weekend,
he would take his friend
to his house at Le Mee.
837
00:51:32,959 --> 00:51:35,222
Karl had bought
this house outside of Paris.
838
00:51:37,094 --> 00:51:39,574
That house,
he basically bought
as a place for Jacques.
839
00:51:42,273 --> 00:51:43,665
We worked a lot there.
840
00:51:47,582 --> 00:51:50,237
And Karl had
a different demeanour.
841
00:51:54,023 --> 00:51:55,416
There was less of this...
842
00:51:57,201 --> 00:51:59,420
high-octane force
843
00:51:59,464 --> 00:52:00,639
that would go through the air
844
00:52:00,682 --> 00:52:02,641
when you were
working with him.
845
00:52:02,684 --> 00:52:04,730
It was more like...
846
00:52:04,773 --> 00:52:07,776
and he kept... he kept
looking to the window.
847
00:52:11,780 --> 00:52:13,217
He would look to
Jacques's window.
848
00:52:14,566 --> 00:52:15,741
Oh, we could be
doing anything,
849
00:52:15,784 --> 00:52:17,134
and he would look
to Jacques's window,
850
00:52:17,177 --> 00:52:18,483
and it was really...
851
00:52:18,526 --> 00:52:19,484
from the garden.
852
00:52:25,838 --> 00:52:27,405
And then he went back
into the hospital,
853
00:52:27,448 --> 00:52:28,841
and I never saw him again.
854
00:52:37,980 --> 00:52:39,982
Have you fallen in love
like that again
855
00:52:40,026 --> 00:52:44,726
or was it a love
above all else?
856
00:52:44,770 --> 00:52:48,687
There's no question.
It was incomparable.
857
00:52:48,730 --> 00:52:54,997
It couldn't ever be the same,
and I would never want it
to be the same.
858
00:52:55,041 --> 00:52:56,477
I hate the idea.
859
00:53:04,181 --> 00:53:07,662
When Jacques passed away,
Karl was a soldier.
860
00:53:12,450 --> 00:53:13,494
He was strong enough...
861
00:53:15,801 --> 00:53:17,411
...to face the fashion shows,
862
00:53:17,455 --> 00:53:19,892
interviews, the fittings.
863
00:53:22,938 --> 00:53:25,114
That was pretty impressive.
864
00:53:28,683 --> 00:53:29,945
What's
your biggest passion
865
00:53:29,989 --> 00:53:31,077
outside of fashion?
866
00:53:31,120 --> 00:53:32,078
Photography.
867
00:53:35,560 --> 00:53:40,652
What I love about photography
is that it evokes a moment
868
00:53:40,695 --> 00:53:45,396
that is impossible
to reproduce, gone forever.
869
00:53:54,013 --> 00:53:55,928
Photography is complimentary.
870
00:53:55,971 --> 00:54:00,802
It allows me to
look at my own work
with some distance.
871
00:54:00,846 --> 00:54:04,676
It is the woman
wearing clothes
who gives life to them,
872
00:54:04,719 --> 00:54:09,507
and her personality
interests me almost as much
as the fashion.
873
00:54:16,601 --> 00:54:18,820
Sometimes people ask me,
"Well, how does he design
874
00:54:18,864 --> 00:54:20,387
"all of these
different collections
for different houses
875
00:54:20,431 --> 00:54:21,562
"and does photography,
876
00:54:21,606 --> 00:54:23,521
"and does books
and exhibits and..."
877
00:54:23,564 --> 00:54:26,263
So, you know what I answer?
I said, "He doesn't sleep."
878
00:54:26,306 --> 00:54:27,568
I was with him in Paris,
879
00:54:27,612 --> 00:54:28,874
and we worked
till four o'clock
in the morning,
880
00:54:28,917 --> 00:54:29,831
and the only reason
why he stopped
881
00:54:29,875 --> 00:54:30,789
at four o'clock in the morning
882
00:54:30,832 --> 00:54:31,877
was because we were dead.
883
00:54:31,920 --> 00:54:33,444
Yeah.
You were unbelievable.
884
00:54:33,487 --> 00:54:34,836
But obviously, I don't have to
be in front of the camera
885
00:54:34,880 --> 00:54:36,316
or I'd be beautiful
like you, huh?
886
00:54:36,360 --> 00:54:38,492
I can look tired
and who cares?
Nobody sees it, huh?
887
00:54:38,536 --> 00:54:39,624
Yeah, but you still
have the energy.
888
00:54:39,667 --> 00:54:40,886
That's unbelievable.
Yes, thank God.
889
00:54:40,929 --> 00:54:42,409
That's a gift, er...
890
00:54:42,453 --> 00:54:43,584
from heaven
to have energy, huh?
891
00:54:58,382 --> 00:55:02,037
We are in the '90s now,
and I think
there is real 180, or 190,
892
00:55:02,081 --> 00:55:04,649
or 200-degree change
in the last two, three years.
893
00:55:04,692 --> 00:55:08,305
Where everything was right in
the rules for the '80s, today,
894
00:55:08,348 --> 00:55:09,480
who cares? Nobody cares.
895
00:55:11,656 --> 00:55:16,530
I was 18 years old
when Chanel first hired me.
896
00:55:19,054 --> 00:55:22,884
I was wearing a rip-up jeans,
and vintage t-shirts,
897
00:55:23,711 --> 00:55:26,497
and I was really shy.
898
00:55:26,540 --> 00:55:31,197
But I got to meet Karl,
and I couldn't look at him.
899
00:55:31,240 --> 00:55:32,851
I was...
I looked at my shoes.
900
00:55:32,894 --> 00:55:36,463
I think he just wanted to,
you know, meet me,
901
00:55:36,507 --> 00:55:39,336
smell the little animal
that I was.
902
00:55:41,294 --> 00:55:45,820
Jean-Paul Goude was to
do the picture and the ad.
903
00:55:45,864 --> 00:55:47,648
And Jean-Paul came into
this apartment,
904
00:55:47,692 --> 00:55:49,302
of the Coco apartment.
905
00:55:49,346 --> 00:55:53,785
And he, er, found this.
906
00:55:55,090 --> 00:55:58,659
Coco,
the spirit of Chanel.
907
00:56:03,925 --> 00:56:06,188
Does it
annoy you, amuse you,
908
00:56:06,232 --> 00:56:11,542
please you that today,
models are the new Hollywood?
909
00:56:11,585 --> 00:56:14,066
I was
behind it in a way,
910
00:56:14,109 --> 00:56:16,024
and I think
it's very important
for fashion.
911
00:56:16,068 --> 00:56:17,983
It makes fashion
much more interesting.
912
00:56:18,026 --> 00:56:20,377
People watch fashion now
like they used to
watch movies, in a way.
913
00:56:22,161 --> 00:56:25,033
On the runway, it's like
the silent movie of our days.
914
00:56:25,077 --> 00:56:27,035
Lots of girls,
I used them
before everybody,
915
00:56:27,079 --> 00:56:30,125
when everybody thought
they were still ugly
or uninteresting.
916
00:56:30,169 --> 00:56:32,650
There's an American girl
called Kristen McMenamy.
917
00:56:32,693 --> 00:56:34,086
Five years ago,
nobody wanted her.
918
00:56:34,129 --> 00:56:36,044
I thought she was genius.
919
00:56:36,088 --> 00:56:37,045
Now everybody thinks
she's the greatest thing,
and they are right.
920
00:56:37,089 --> 00:56:37,916
She is divine.
921
00:56:39,613 --> 00:56:42,790
Karl Lagerfeld
was the first one
who said, "I like it.
922
00:56:42,834 --> 00:56:43,661
"You're weird."
923
00:56:44,575 --> 00:56:46,315
You know, "You are different.
924
00:56:46,359 --> 00:56:47,882
"It's not bad. It's unique."
925
00:56:51,103 --> 00:56:52,931
Ooh, and walking on top of it.
926
00:56:55,281 --> 00:56:56,978
Karl really liked
having his studio
927
00:56:57,022 --> 00:57:01,287
full of
different personalities,
different backgrounds.
928
00:57:01,330 --> 00:57:04,029
Anna Piaggi was someone
who was incredibly important
to all of us.
929
00:57:05,552 --> 00:57:08,555
In the '60s and the '70s,
that's when he began
930
00:57:08,599 --> 00:57:10,165
to become very close
with Anna.
931
00:57:12,994 --> 00:57:17,390
This Italian woman Anna Piaggi
must be quite extraordinary
932
00:57:17,434 --> 00:57:19,566
to have inspired you
to draw her.
933
00:57:21,220 --> 00:57:22,700
It's a peculiar thing.
934
00:57:22,743 --> 00:57:26,443
Anna has this gift,
no matter what she does,
935
00:57:26,486 --> 00:57:29,750
you want to transform her
into a drawing or a painting.
936
00:57:31,535 --> 00:57:33,450
She never does
what is expected,
937
00:57:33,493 --> 00:57:35,190
and yet once she has done it,
938
00:57:35,234 --> 00:57:36,714
it is always so obvious.
939
00:57:43,503 --> 00:57:44,983
What surprised me is that
940
00:57:45,026 --> 00:57:47,986
I was expecting to see
a 6ft tall model
941
00:57:48,029 --> 00:57:49,814
whereas she isn't
exceptionally beautiful.
942
00:57:49,857 --> 00:57:54,732
She does not fit into
any of today's
beauty standards.
943
00:57:54,775 --> 00:57:58,562
But she's very seductive
in her own way.
944
00:57:58,605 --> 00:58:01,739
She is also
a very warm person.
945
00:58:01,782 --> 00:58:05,264
She is the most normal woman
on Earth.
946
00:58:05,307 --> 00:58:07,571
Anna was a source
of inspiration,
947
00:58:07,614 --> 00:58:10,487
a source of bringing
people together.
948
00:58:11,313 --> 00:58:12,576
It's even like with the music.
949
00:58:19,321 --> 00:58:22,847
Karl loved music because
music connects you to the day.
950
00:58:26,851 --> 00:58:29,680
In the studio,
the music was incredibly loud,
951
00:58:29,723 --> 00:58:31,203
and people would always say,
952
00:58:31,246 --> 00:58:33,814
"How are you two understanding
one another?"
953
00:58:33,858 --> 00:58:35,599
If we didn't have that,
954
00:58:35,642 --> 00:58:38,863
we would not have been able
to work those hours
we were working.
955
00:58:38,906 --> 00:58:40,821
'Cause I don't take drugs,
I don't drink,
956
00:58:40,865 --> 00:58:42,606
he doesn't drink,
he doesn't take drugs.
957
00:58:42,649 --> 00:58:43,520
Anita?
958
00:58:43,563 --> 00:58:44,651
Yes.
959
00:58:44,695 --> 00:58:46,218
Can we try
to make it a bit shorter?
960
00:58:46,261 --> 00:58:47,828
[IN ENGLISH] Even Anita
and the older women, huh?
961
00:58:47,872 --> 00:58:50,222
They knew the music
was blasting loud.
962
00:58:50,265 --> 00:58:53,965
They wouldn't say,
"Can you turn that down?
I can't concentrate."
963
00:58:54,008 --> 00:58:56,881
How do you manage to
stay up to date on music?
964
00:58:56,924 --> 00:58:59,013
There is
this place in Paris
called Champs Disques
965
00:58:59,057 --> 00:59:00,754
where they get everything
before anyone else,
even before New York.
966
00:59:03,714 --> 00:59:06,368
There was a store
next to the studio,
967
00:59:06,412 --> 00:59:08,501
so Karl says,
"Have you heard
of Champs Disques?"
968
00:59:08,545 --> 00:59:11,112
"Yeah, I have."
And we go,
and we go downstairs,
969
00:59:11,156 --> 00:59:14,159
and that's when I met
Michel Gaubert.
970
00:59:14,202 --> 00:59:17,075
Eric Wright
came to see me
at Champs Disques
971
00:59:17,118 --> 00:59:19,991
and asked me if I wanted
to do the music
for Karl Lagerfeld,
972
00:59:20,034 --> 00:59:23,690
so I said, "Okay!"
973
00:59:23,734 --> 00:59:25,866
Like Karl
didn't like fashion...
974
00:59:25,910 --> 00:59:27,259
he always said he didn't
like fashion
975
00:59:27,302 --> 00:59:28,869
that was too intellectual.
976
00:59:28,913 --> 00:59:31,219
He didn't want people
to cry at the show,
977
00:59:31,263 --> 00:59:33,004
because of all that beauty.
978
00:59:33,047 --> 00:59:35,441
And also, he never wanted me
to use slow music,
979
00:59:35,484 --> 00:59:37,878
that he called "runway glue."
980
00:59:37,922 --> 00:59:39,488
It was like a codeword
between all of us
981
00:59:39,532 --> 00:59:40,707
who worked on the music.
982
00:59:40,751 --> 00:59:43,144
Karl would just say,
"Mm, it's very beautiful.
983
00:59:43,188 --> 00:59:44,450
"Runway glue."
984
00:59:44,493 --> 00:59:45,712
And we knew,
"Well, that's out."
985
00:59:54,025 --> 00:59:58,551
In 1992,
Karl wanted to
do a hip-hop show.
986
01:00:00,205 --> 01:00:01,989
He was starting
to go back to New York.
987
01:00:02,033 --> 01:00:05,558
He saw all those people like
wearing Canal Street,
988
01:00:05,602 --> 01:00:08,953
Chanel logos
on bags and belts.
989
01:00:08,996 --> 01:00:10,476
And he said, "Oh my God,
they're using Chanel.
990
01:00:10,519 --> 01:00:12,565
"I want to do the same thing.
991
01:00:12,609 --> 01:00:15,742
"I want to, again, amplify
the Chanel phenomenon."
992
01:00:20,094 --> 01:00:24,577
It was them who used
Chanel things
993
01:00:24,621 --> 01:00:26,057
to make them look cooler
994
01:00:26,100 --> 01:00:28,668
and then Chanel
used their things,
995
01:00:28,712 --> 01:00:31,105
and they looked cooler again
when they wore
their Chanel things.
996
01:00:31,149 --> 01:00:32,280
So that was very fun.
997
01:00:35,893 --> 01:00:37,372
That show I really liked,
that became
998
01:00:37,416 --> 01:00:38,678
later known
as the Barbie Show.
999
01:00:38,722 --> 01:00:40,898
We played that song called
Short Dick Man,
1000
01:00:40,941 --> 01:00:42,769
"I don't want
a short dick man."
1001
01:00:42,813 --> 01:00:45,163
♪ Don't want
no short dick man ♪
1002
01:00:46,555 --> 01:00:49,167
♪ Don't want
no short dick man ♪
1003
01:00:49,210 --> 01:00:52,039
The music was literally
creating this story
1004
01:00:52,083 --> 01:00:54,128
of a Barbie doll,
and just having fun.
1005
01:00:57,828 --> 01:01:00,439
There was this
undercurrent of like
1006
01:01:00,482 --> 01:01:02,310
clicking on the switch
for a moment
1007
01:01:02,354 --> 01:01:03,485
and letting
something come out,
1008
01:01:03,529 --> 01:01:04,878
and then closing the switch.
1009
01:01:04,922 --> 01:01:06,532
And the music,
1010
01:01:06,575 --> 01:01:09,100
with the girls walking down
with those zipper skirts...
1011
01:01:09,143 --> 01:01:12,364
that only would have come out
of the wittiness
1012
01:01:12,407 --> 01:01:14,409
and the funniness
of the studio of Chanel.
1013
01:01:20,415 --> 01:01:22,243
There was a review
from Women's Wear Daily
1014
01:01:22,287 --> 01:01:24,768
that said that
"The Chanel show
was so much fun,
1015
01:01:24,811 --> 01:01:26,247
"so much joy.
1016
01:01:26,291 --> 01:01:28,597
"There were even songs
with lyrics we can't print.
1017
01:01:28,641 --> 01:01:29,729
"That's why we love Paris."
1018
01:01:31,862 --> 01:01:33,994
It really summed up
what we wanted to do.
1019
01:01:34,038 --> 01:01:36,431
No intellectualization
of fashion or nothing,
1020
01:01:36,475 --> 01:01:39,696
just pure fashion
with a capital F.
1021
01:01:45,092 --> 01:01:47,138
The designers I prefer
are the designers
1022
01:01:47,181 --> 01:01:49,227
who do things completely
opposite to what I'm doing.
1023
01:01:54,232 --> 01:01:56,451
MARIE-LOUISE:
At the end of the '90s,
1024
01:01:56,495 --> 01:01:59,672
fashion start to change again.
1025
01:01:59,716 --> 01:02:04,155
And we have
these English creators
1026
01:02:04,198 --> 01:02:07,027
arriving, like Galliano,
McQueen.
1027
01:02:12,293 --> 01:02:14,208
I like other people
to do good things,
1028
01:02:14,252 --> 01:02:16,515
and I think it's important
that there are
many good designers,
1029
01:02:16,558 --> 01:02:18,604
because the fashion world
would be too boring.
1030
01:02:18,647 --> 01:02:19,997
For competitive people,
1031
01:02:20,040 --> 01:02:23,435
for people who like
to be the leader,
1032
01:02:23,478 --> 01:02:27,482
often something like that
can propel you, can push you.
1033
01:02:27,526 --> 01:02:29,441
All of a sudden,
there's competition
1034
01:02:29,484 --> 01:02:30,834
when you haven't
had competition.
1035
01:02:30,877 --> 01:02:33,053
It can make you better.
It can make you strive.
1036
01:02:33,097 --> 01:02:34,968
It can make you go back
and rethink.
1037
01:02:35,012 --> 01:02:36,753
It can reinvigorate you.
1038
01:02:36,796 --> 01:02:38,319
And I think
that's what happened.
1039
01:02:43,455 --> 01:02:45,849
Galliano was dangerous
for Karl.
1040
01:02:45,892 --> 01:02:48,503
Too talented at Dior.
1041
01:02:48,547 --> 01:02:50,636
Maybe he hired Amanda Harlech
1042
01:02:50,679 --> 01:02:53,030
because she was working
with Galliano.
1043
01:02:53,073 --> 01:02:54,945
I think
Amanda came to Karl
1044
01:02:54,988 --> 01:02:57,643
because all of a sudden
when Galliano's career
took off,
1045
01:02:57,686 --> 01:02:59,471
Amanda was not included.
1046
01:02:59,514 --> 01:03:01,516
And she had been
very instrumental
1047
01:03:01,560 --> 01:03:03,954
in helping John
establish his look.
1048
01:03:03,997 --> 01:03:06,565
And so, I think that was
a perfect moment
1049
01:03:06,608 --> 01:03:09,960
and very smart of Karl
to say, "Okay, fine,
1050
01:03:10,003 --> 01:03:11,222
"Amanda, come to me."
1051
01:03:14,878 --> 01:03:17,924
The greatest difference
between working with John
1052
01:03:17,968 --> 01:03:20,231
was the pure speed
with which Karl worked.
1053
01:03:20,274 --> 01:03:23,103
He didn't obsess
over a piece of fabric.
1054
01:03:23,147 --> 01:03:26,106
He saw things grand scale
immediately.
1055
01:03:26,150 --> 01:03:27,194
No second option.
1056
01:03:28,761 --> 01:03:30,850
A McQueen show
was a McQueen show.
1057
01:03:30,894 --> 01:03:33,287
But no matter
where the venue was,
1058
01:03:33,331 --> 01:03:36,116
somehow it remained intimate.
1059
01:03:36,160 --> 01:03:39,380
A Galliano show was always
a Galliano show,
1060
01:03:39,424 --> 01:03:41,252
big, crazy,
whatever you wanted.
1061
01:03:41,295 --> 01:03:45,082
But somehow that also
remained intimate.
1062
01:03:45,125 --> 01:03:47,388
And we were still
1063
01:03:47,432 --> 01:03:49,303
into the big runway,
big runway,
1064
01:03:49,347 --> 01:03:51,218
big runway, big runway.
1065
01:03:51,262 --> 01:03:53,394
And he just said, "Okay,
now this has to change."
1066
01:04:01,141 --> 01:04:03,187
It's been 13 years already
1067
01:04:03,230 --> 01:04:05,232
since Karl took over
the famous house
at Rue Cambon.
1068
01:04:08,496 --> 01:04:11,151
We have seen provocative Karl,
extravagant Karl.
1069
01:04:11,195 --> 01:04:12,936
Those days are over.
1070
01:04:12,979 --> 01:04:16,156
In the Ritz,
he is reconnecting
with Chanel spirit.
1071
01:04:17,027 --> 01:04:18,506
Spirit of Coco, are you there?
1072
01:04:46,752 --> 01:04:48,841
The story is becoming
more and more important now
1073
01:04:48,885 --> 01:04:50,451
because of these two
creative kids
1074
01:04:50,495 --> 01:04:52,062
that were on the block.
1075
01:04:52,105 --> 01:04:53,802
McQueen and Galliano,
1076
01:04:53,846 --> 01:04:56,588
they were always
telling a story.
1077
01:04:56,631 --> 01:04:58,982
If you look around
Gabrielle Chanel's apartment,
1078
01:04:59,025 --> 01:05:04,378
there's so many inspiration
for Coco Chanel and for Karl.
1079
01:05:05,814 --> 01:05:07,294
There are so much details.
1080
01:05:07,338 --> 01:05:09,079
It always starts here.
1081
01:05:12,386 --> 01:05:15,041
You had these
very famous shutters
and room dividers,
1082
01:05:15,085 --> 01:05:17,478
the coromandels
that were from China.
1083
01:05:17,522 --> 01:05:19,872
And Chanel was influenced
by this
1084
01:05:19,916 --> 01:05:21,352
for her embroideries
and things like this.
1085
01:05:21,395 --> 01:05:24,833
And Karl did quite a series
that was based on this.
1086
01:05:34,060 --> 01:05:36,584
That was taken from a corner
of the coromandel,
1087
01:05:36,628 --> 01:05:39,936
and just blown up,
and then intricately filled.
1088
01:05:48,379 --> 01:05:50,294
LILY-ROSE: It always felt like
there was a kind of
1089
01:05:50,337 --> 01:05:52,861
cosmic connection
between him and Chanel.
1090
01:05:54,124 --> 01:05:55,603
His spirit was always
in the house,
1091
01:05:55,647 --> 01:05:57,170
or the house's spirit
was always in him.
1092
01:05:57,214 --> 01:06:00,173
There was a real kind of
symbiotic relationship there.
1093
01:06:04,569 --> 01:06:06,658
Have there been moments
1094
01:06:06,701 --> 01:06:10,444
when you are more emotional
or memories that
make you feel fragile?
1095
01:06:12,620 --> 01:06:15,797
No, it's a cliche to believe
that we think like that, no...
1096
01:06:25,851 --> 01:06:28,593
At one point,
your body gave up.
1097
01:06:28,636 --> 01:06:33,119
Maybe the spirit
didn't give up,
but the body did, Karl.
1098
01:06:33,163 --> 01:06:36,296
Yes, because
I was less interested
in my own image.
1099
01:06:37,689 --> 01:06:39,865
I lived in a kind of torpor.
1100
01:06:42,824 --> 01:06:45,958
Karl began to gain weight
a lot in the '90s.
1101
01:06:50,484 --> 01:06:51,833
When Jacques was gone,
1102
01:06:51,877 --> 01:06:53,705
Karl really began to get big.
1103
01:06:55,663 --> 01:06:57,926
I think the reason why
Jacques would say,
1104
01:06:57,970 --> 01:06:59,624
"Be careful
about what he eats,"
1105
01:06:59,667 --> 01:07:03,497
is he knew
how Karl reacted to
certain stressful situations.
1106
01:07:05,325 --> 01:07:07,545
But when Karl did have
Jacques around,
1107
01:07:07,588 --> 01:07:10,200
there was an ease
that happened to his body.
1108
01:07:11,288 --> 01:07:12,767
It was something like, oh...
1109
01:07:13,942 --> 01:07:16,075
You knew that Karl was happy.
1110
01:07:21,428 --> 01:07:24,344
He always pretended
that he was somebody
1111
01:07:24,388 --> 01:07:27,304
who didn't have feelings
or emotions.
1112
01:07:27,347 --> 01:07:29,349
You know, that he was
above that.
1113
01:07:29,393 --> 01:07:33,049
Er, and then losing Jacques
1114
01:07:33,092 --> 01:07:35,660
made him realise that,
1115
01:07:35,703 --> 01:07:39,011
after all, contrary to
what he was pretending,
1116
01:07:39,055 --> 01:07:42,406
feelings are
the most important things
in one's life.
1117
01:07:59,684 --> 01:08:04,471
He did sort of stumble
in October of 1998.
1118
01:08:04,515 --> 01:08:08,040
Karl had developed a handbag
1119
01:08:08,084 --> 01:08:10,303
that was truly hideous.
1120
01:08:13,828 --> 01:08:15,874
And then
his ready-to-wear collection
1121
01:08:15,917 --> 01:08:18,094
just seemed off the mark.
1122
01:08:28,843 --> 01:08:31,368
I pushed Chanel
so far in one direction,
1123
01:08:31,411 --> 01:08:33,500
I suddenly had the feeling
to clean the room out
1124
01:08:33,544 --> 01:08:35,023
and go back
to the starting point.
1125
01:08:35,067 --> 01:08:37,504
But in a way,
right for the middle '90s.
1126
01:08:43,684 --> 01:08:47,340
Most of
the fashion critics
wondered what was up.
1127
01:08:49,647 --> 01:08:54,347
It was my first show
as a director general
for fashion.
1128
01:08:54,391 --> 01:08:57,872
It was a very weird one.
1129
01:08:57,916 --> 01:09:01,180
It was not the best collection
that Karl designed,
1130
01:09:01,224 --> 01:09:05,228
and minimalism is nothing
about Chanel.
1131
01:09:06,490 --> 01:09:09,362
Karl wanted to be
part of this trend,
1132
01:09:10,233 --> 01:09:12,887
but it was not his taste.
1133
01:09:12,931 --> 01:09:16,543
It was a kind of,
you are a top success,
1134
01:09:16,587 --> 01:09:19,024
and the trend start to change,
1135
01:09:19,067 --> 01:09:20,373
and you feel lost,
1136
01:09:20,417 --> 01:09:21,983
and you don't know
how to rebound.
1137
01:09:24,247 --> 01:09:28,381
Karl became the subject
of all of these rumours
1138
01:09:28,425 --> 01:09:30,688
that things
were falling apart,
1139
01:09:30,731 --> 01:09:34,300
that they were going to need
to bring somebody in.
1140
01:09:34,344 --> 01:09:37,956
You know,
after this show,
it was a kind of drama
1141
01:09:37,999 --> 01:09:41,438
in the US fashion world.
1142
01:09:41,481 --> 01:09:45,529
I remember
being sent to New York
1143
01:09:45,572 --> 01:09:47,879
to try to find
some explanation, you know,
1144
01:09:47,922 --> 01:09:49,228
about what happened.
1145
01:09:50,664 --> 01:09:53,537
I think that
Karl was so upset.
1146
01:09:53,580 --> 01:09:58,106
He was asking himself
how to rebound.
1147
01:09:58,150 --> 01:10:01,197
Do you wake up
one day and say,
"I'm gonna change"?
1148
01:10:01,240 --> 01:10:02,981
No, I looked
in the mirror.
1149
01:10:03,024 --> 01:10:04,156
And I saw another fashion.
1150
01:10:08,421 --> 01:10:12,686
You know, vanity is
the healthiest thing in life
1151
01:10:12,730 --> 01:10:15,167
because you cannot
let you go yourself.
1152
01:10:15,211 --> 01:10:16,995
You have to be careful.
You know, if you wake up
1153
01:10:17,038 --> 01:10:18,518
and the pants are too tight,
1154
01:10:18,562 --> 01:10:19,606
it's a bad moment, huh,
1155
01:10:19,650 --> 01:10:22,914
for a superficial person
like me.
1156
01:10:48,722 --> 01:10:50,333
So you lost 40 kilos.
42 kilos.
1157
01:10:50,376 --> 01:10:52,291
42 kilos. In how long?
13 months.
1158
01:10:54,641 --> 01:10:58,863
When you were losing weight,
was it a battle with yourself?
1159
01:10:58,906 --> 01:11:01,909
[IN GERMAN] No,
why always a battle?
People always want drama.
1160
01:11:06,523 --> 01:11:08,829
I'm kind of fascist
with myself, you know.
1161
01:11:08,873 --> 01:11:10,091
There is no discussion.
1162
01:11:10,135 --> 01:11:11,615
There is an order.
You follow it.
1163
01:11:18,883 --> 01:11:21,799
[IN GERMAN] But now,
I've had enough,
1164
01:11:21,842 --> 01:11:26,847
I need to make room
for something new.
1165
01:11:29,720 --> 01:11:32,200
Karl was changing his house,
1166
01:11:32,244 --> 01:11:35,334
and he had cleared out
all this stuff
on the second floor.
1167
01:11:36,553 --> 01:11:39,033
And all of a sudden,
he swishes by,
1168
01:11:39,077 --> 01:11:40,948
and he goes, "I'm coming,
Mr. Wright, I'm sorry,
1169
01:11:40,992 --> 01:11:41,949
"I'm sorry, I'm sorry, sorry."
1170
01:11:41,993 --> 01:11:43,908
And he just went
zhoomp, zhoomp,
1171
01:11:43,951 --> 01:11:48,478
and I said,
"He's changing right now
in front of our eyes."
1172
01:11:50,741 --> 01:11:53,526
It had to do with Karl
beginning a new chapter
1173
01:11:53,570 --> 01:11:56,529
and adapting himself,
adapting himself
1174
01:11:56,573 --> 01:12:00,054
to the times,
not holding onto his past.
1175
01:12:00,098 --> 01:12:02,318
And if you held onto the past,
that was your problem.
1176
01:12:08,106 --> 01:12:11,327
So... I presume
you have heard.
1177
01:12:11,370 --> 01:12:13,590
It's hard to believe
he is doing it.
1178
01:12:13,633 --> 01:12:15,374
But is it really true?
1179
01:12:15,418 --> 01:12:18,725
Well, it certainly looks
like it, doesn't it?
1180
01:12:18,769 --> 01:12:19,987
Is it true?
1181
01:12:20,031 --> 01:12:22,163
I get a call from Karl.
1182
01:12:22,207 --> 01:12:26,298
he is telling me
about a proposal
1183
01:12:26,342 --> 01:12:28,474
he has coming from HandM.
1184
01:12:28,518 --> 01:12:33,697
"Yes, they would like to do
a collection with me."
1185
01:12:33,740 --> 01:12:36,613
And I have to be honest,
my first reaction was like,
1186
01:12:36,656 --> 01:12:38,092
"Never do this."
1187
01:12:39,442 --> 01:12:43,663
It was completely new
that a couture designer
1188
01:12:43,707 --> 01:12:46,013
was collaborating
with a fast fashion brand.
1189
01:12:46,057 --> 01:12:51,192
You have to realise that this
never ever happened before.
1190
01:12:51,236 --> 01:12:53,760
That's outrageous.
1191
01:12:53,804 --> 01:12:56,415
What kind of sick pleasure
does he find in this?
1192
01:12:56,459 --> 01:12:58,243
Isn't that obvious?
1193
01:13:00,245 --> 01:13:01,986
I believe in two things.
1194
01:13:02,029 --> 01:13:06,817
Luxury that is elegant,
expensive and high quality,
and this...
1195
01:13:06,860 --> 01:13:10,255
It's something that's fun,
flattering, delightful.
1196
01:13:10,298 --> 01:13:13,998
We were
a little bit anxious.
1197
01:13:14,041 --> 01:13:17,262
But Chanel let him do it
1198
01:13:18,437 --> 01:13:20,700
because we trust him.
1199
01:13:20,744 --> 01:13:24,182
And...
What? Don't say it.
1200
01:13:27,228 --> 01:13:30,710
Argh! Karl!
Karl, is it true?
1201
01:13:34,279 --> 01:13:35,193
Of course it's true.
1202
01:13:36,760 --> 01:13:37,891
But it's cheap.
1203
01:13:38,936 --> 01:13:40,024
What a depressing word.
1204
01:13:40,067 --> 01:13:42,505
It's all about taste.
1205
01:13:42,548 --> 01:13:46,204
If you are cheap, well,
nothing helps.
1206
01:13:56,649 --> 01:13:59,347
To get Lagerfeld
at HandM prices, it's great.
1207
01:13:59,391 --> 01:14:03,134
Hooked...
I am hooked on Karl,
and all he does.
1208
01:14:03,177 --> 01:14:05,266
He's a genius,
and I had to be here!
1209
01:14:13,449 --> 01:14:16,800
I never expected it
to make such a splash.
1210
01:14:16,843 --> 01:14:21,587
The morning it started, I got
a call from Caroline Lebar.
1211
01:14:21,631 --> 01:14:24,460
She told me that wild scenes
were going on.
1212
01:14:25,678 --> 01:14:27,288
I'm super happy.
1213
01:14:27,332 --> 01:14:28,202
I had to fight for it.
1214
01:14:29,987 --> 01:14:31,423
We were almost crushed.
1215
01:14:33,338 --> 01:14:38,212
I saw one guy
biting a woman for a coat.
1216
01:14:38,256 --> 01:14:41,694
And, really, in ten minutes,
nothing left in the store,
1217
01:14:41,738 --> 01:14:43,043
it was a mess.
1218
01:14:43,087 --> 01:14:44,610
The mannequin were nude.
1219
01:14:48,875 --> 01:14:53,793
The fact is that
from that day,
his life has been changing.
1220
01:15:01,409 --> 01:15:02,802
I was working for a designer
1221
01:15:02,846 --> 01:15:04,282
who became a pop star,
you know,
1222
01:15:04,325 --> 01:15:06,023
he was like Michael Jackson
of the fashion, you know?
1223
01:15:11,332 --> 01:15:14,684
I'm amazed
I can't cross the street
1224
01:15:14,727 --> 01:15:16,642
without having
my picture taken.
1225
01:15:16,686 --> 01:15:19,427
A doll, a caricature.
Every day from various people.
1226
01:15:19,471 --> 01:15:21,952
It's kind of phenomenal.
1227
01:15:26,304 --> 01:15:29,960
He loved it, he drank it up
like gallons of Coca Light,
1228
01:15:30,003 --> 01:15:34,007
it was like champagne
to his very existence.
1229
01:15:35,922 --> 01:15:37,924
[IN FRENCH] It's as if
I were my own puppet.
1230
01:15:37,968 --> 01:15:39,665
I am playing with a character.
1231
01:15:55,855 --> 01:15:58,902
Some performers
have an alter-ego,
1232
01:15:58,945 --> 01:16:03,036
and so much of what was
Karl's look was artifice.
1233
01:16:03,080 --> 01:16:06,213
It was the white hair,
it was the glasses,
1234
01:16:06,257 --> 01:16:08,085
it was the high neck collar.
1235
01:16:08,128 --> 01:16:11,175
It was
18th century caricature.
1236
01:16:11,218 --> 01:16:14,178
I mean, imagine
if you saw Karl in a t-shirt.
1237
01:16:14,221 --> 01:16:15,832
You know, what would that
have been?
1238
01:16:15,875 --> 01:16:21,011
It's an armour, it's a persona
that you play.
1239
01:16:21,054 --> 01:16:24,449
And it was part of what
made Karl so iconic.
1240
01:16:27,408 --> 01:16:30,673
He had
this endless box of tricks
1241
01:16:31,674 --> 01:16:35,373
and naughtiness,
and provocation.
1242
01:16:35,416 --> 01:16:39,638
I'm DJ Karl.
This is my radio station.
1243
01:16:39,682 --> 01:16:42,641
One of his project
was Grand Theft Auto.
1244
01:16:42,685 --> 01:16:45,252
Grand Theft Auto
is an amazing game,
1245
01:16:45,296 --> 01:16:47,254
a bit controversial,
like Karl.
1246
01:16:47,298 --> 01:16:49,387
Liberty City, home of
the bourgeois squander.
1247
01:16:49,430 --> 01:16:52,042
Live fast, burn out,
1248
01:16:52,085 --> 01:16:54,392
move to the suburbs, you see?
1249
01:16:54,435 --> 01:16:56,046
You know you're listening
to the studio,
1250
01:16:56,089 --> 01:16:57,787
but what you don't know
is that
1251
01:16:57,830 --> 01:16:59,919
you are focused too much
on the past.
1252
01:16:59,963 --> 01:17:02,400
Saying things were better
in the old days.
1253
01:17:02,443 --> 01:17:03,706
They were not!
1254
01:17:06,447 --> 01:17:09,059
For someone working in PR
1255
01:17:09,102 --> 01:17:12,236
for such a personality
with no limit,
1256
01:17:12,279 --> 01:17:16,370
there were some times,
some critical moments.
1257
01:17:16,414 --> 01:17:18,155
Sometime I told him,
"You know,
1258
01:17:18,198 --> 01:17:20,331
"there was this moment
where you said this and this."
1259
01:17:20,374 --> 01:17:24,378
Maybe it will be tomorrow
in the newspaper.
1260
01:17:24,422 --> 01:17:26,250
Most of the time,
I did not realise
1261
01:17:26,293 --> 01:17:28,034
how big it would become.
1262
01:17:29,993 --> 01:17:31,647
I mean,
I cannot say that
1263
01:17:31,690 --> 01:17:34,650
everything he said
was correct.
We all know that.
1264
01:17:34,693 --> 01:17:37,609
And if he would have asked me,
1265
01:17:37,653 --> 01:17:39,089
"Oh, what do you think
about that?"
1266
01:17:39,132 --> 01:17:40,481
And I would
probably have said,
1267
01:17:40,525 --> 01:17:42,092
"I don't think that's funny.
1268
01:17:42,135 --> 01:17:43,615
"You don't have to say
those things."
1269
01:17:43,659 --> 01:17:47,140
Women in the past
were restricted
by what they wore,
1270
01:17:47,184 --> 01:17:49,447
whereas today,
women perhaps
are not restricted
1271
01:17:49,490 --> 01:17:52,102
by what they wear,
but they're enslaved
in a way
1272
01:17:52,145 --> 01:17:54,191
by the fashion industry's
insistence
1273
01:17:54,234 --> 01:17:55,758
on women being thin.
1274
01:17:55,801 --> 01:17:58,499
Yes, but I see it as like
a normal evolution, you see?
1275
01:17:58,543 --> 01:18:01,502
You mean it'll be okay
for women
to be fat in the future?
1276
01:18:01,546 --> 01:18:03,113
I'm afraid, yes.
1277
01:18:04,375 --> 01:18:07,160
Chanel didn't have to comment
1278
01:18:07,204 --> 01:18:09,206
on his personal statements.
1279
01:18:10,729 --> 01:18:12,383
That is all I have to say.
1280
01:18:29,574 --> 01:18:31,968
Today, we do a show,
not only for the audience,
1281
01:18:32,011 --> 01:18:33,534
we do it for the whole world.
1282
01:18:35,101 --> 01:18:37,103
It's something people watch.
1283
01:18:37,147 --> 01:18:40,716
I do a kind of
Cecil B. DeMille job
for Chanel.
1284
01:18:43,370 --> 01:18:45,372
Like a super production movie.
1285
01:18:45,416 --> 01:18:46,765
It's not a bad thing.
1286
01:18:58,603 --> 01:19:01,345
Karl, when he was a child,
1287
01:19:01,388 --> 01:19:04,130
had visited a great exhibition
1288
01:19:04,174 --> 01:19:06,524
at the Grand Palais in Paris.
1289
01:19:06,567 --> 01:19:12,095
He never forgot the beauty
of the bizarre architecture.
1290
01:19:12,138 --> 01:19:15,402
And I think he knew
that it would become
1291
01:19:15,446 --> 01:19:18,710
a source of inspiration
at the right scale
1292
01:19:18,754 --> 01:19:20,712
for Chanel and for him.
1293
01:19:25,064 --> 01:19:28,328
When it reopened,
he jumped on the Grand Palais,
1294
01:19:28,372 --> 01:19:30,983
and it was the beginning
of this amazing story
1295
01:19:31,027 --> 01:19:32,202
between Chanel
and the Grand Palais.
1296
01:19:37,033 --> 01:19:38,991
I have a fantastic team.
1297
01:19:39,035 --> 01:19:42,516
For instance,
the shows we do for Chanel
with these incredible sets.
1298
01:19:42,560 --> 01:19:44,431
There's a guy
named Stefan Lubrina
1299
01:19:44,475 --> 01:19:46,390
who's a genius
at realizing my ideas.
1300
01:19:49,088 --> 01:19:51,656
I have ideas,
but there is no way
I could actually make them.
1301
01:19:54,267 --> 01:19:59,316
He often said to me,
"Listen, Stefan,
I dreamed of a set last night.
1302
01:19:59,359 --> 01:20:00,665
"Come, we have to meet up."
1303
01:20:03,276 --> 01:20:05,801
He was always trying
to go further.
1304
01:20:10,849 --> 01:20:13,852
The sets were evolving
more and more.
1305
01:20:16,028 --> 01:20:18,074
Everything was possible
inside the Grand Palais.
1306
01:20:22,730 --> 01:20:24,384
And for sure,
we did everything there.
1307
01:20:37,180 --> 01:20:40,226
Last Year at Marienbad,
it's a key movie
1308
01:20:40,270 --> 01:20:42,141
in the story of Chanel.
1309
01:20:43,882 --> 01:20:46,580
Gabrielle Chanel
created the costumes.
1310
01:20:52,804 --> 01:20:55,633
And it was the show
of the comeback
1311
01:20:55,676 --> 01:20:57,722
of Ines de la Fressange.
1312
01:20:57,765 --> 01:21:01,639
And it was so striking,
so moving.
1313
01:21:24,314 --> 01:21:25,532
I remember walking in
1314
01:21:25,576 --> 01:21:27,447
and we were standing
1315
01:21:27,491 --> 01:21:29,841
underneath the first two tiers
of the Eiffel Tower.
1316
01:21:31,364 --> 01:21:33,671
And everyone was in shock.
1317
01:21:33,714 --> 01:21:36,630
He was a little bit like
a magician in that way.
1318
01:21:38,806 --> 01:21:40,896
He just made us all
four years old.
1319
01:21:57,564 --> 01:22:01,655
It just felt like
we were inside
a part of Karl's brain
1320
01:22:01,699 --> 01:22:04,354
that had just kind of birthed
this insane thing.
1321
01:22:22,938 --> 01:22:26,158
The later collections
at the Grand Palais
1322
01:22:26,202 --> 01:22:28,465
could be perceived
as eclipsing fashion
1323
01:22:28,508 --> 01:22:30,597
and therefore, were newsworthy
1324
01:22:30,641 --> 01:22:33,209
in just their enormity.
1325
01:22:35,254 --> 01:22:36,560
Lift off.
1326
01:22:45,569 --> 01:22:49,834
But really,
Karl was reading
what was coming up ahead.
1327
01:22:56,580 --> 01:23:00,932
He was so amused that
the demonstration show
1328
01:23:00,976 --> 01:23:04,370
coincided with demonstrations
in Paris.
1329
01:23:06,894 --> 01:23:10,681
Karl's strange psychic genius
1330
01:23:10,724 --> 01:23:12,335
that great designers have
1331
01:23:12,378 --> 01:23:16,992
is to really interpret
what is about to happen.
1332
01:23:21,692 --> 01:23:25,348
When he said,
"Uh, next show,
we do supermarket,"
1333
01:23:25,391 --> 01:23:27,959
oh, my God, supermarket,
I was like...
1334
01:23:28,003 --> 01:23:30,048
even I told all my team,
1335
01:23:30,092 --> 01:23:31,745
"What I can do
with a supermarket?
1336
01:23:31,789 --> 01:23:33,356
"What I can do
with supermarket?"
1337
01:23:33,399 --> 01:23:34,748
So, I was so stressed.
1338
01:23:34,792 --> 01:23:36,228
We have to make
a Chanel story.
1339
01:23:36,272 --> 01:23:38,535
Chanel is like very kind of...
1340
01:23:38,578 --> 01:23:40,406
all the rich people
wearing the jackets.
1341
01:23:40,450 --> 01:23:42,495
So, we had to make
expensive jacket
1342
01:23:42,539 --> 01:23:44,715
from the supermarket idea.
1343
01:23:46,064 --> 01:23:48,240
So, we went
to all the supermarket,
1344
01:23:48,284 --> 01:23:50,460
I take all the picture of
the vegetable, everything.
1345
01:23:52,331 --> 01:23:54,942
And these are like beautiful
betteraves colours,
1346
01:23:55,682 --> 01:23:57,467
and this onion colours.
1347
01:23:57,510 --> 01:24:00,165
I never thought about this,
1348
01:24:00,209 --> 01:24:04,561
the onion can have a beautiful
Bordeaux colours, you know.
1349
01:24:04,604 --> 01:24:07,738
We made also this kind of
frozen kind of carrot colours.
1350
01:24:09,131 --> 01:24:10,958
Salad colours...
1351
01:24:11,002 --> 01:24:13,135
kind of a red meat tweed.
1352
01:24:15,180 --> 01:24:17,443
And then this one is from egg,
so you see.
1353
01:24:17,487 --> 01:24:19,706
We made this one Chanel bag,
1354
01:24:19,750 --> 01:24:21,099
it's quite an education.
1355
01:24:21,143 --> 01:24:22,753
It'll fit in the bag.
1356
01:24:24,537 --> 01:24:26,539
Everything you could exist
in a supermarket
1357
01:24:26,583 --> 01:24:29,064
was like branded by Chanel.
1358
01:24:29,107 --> 01:24:31,849
And they made the supermarket
like a Walmart,
1359
01:24:31,892 --> 01:24:33,720
something not very glamorous,
which I also liked.
1360
01:24:35,070 --> 01:24:37,637
It looked like, oh, my God,
super discount.
1361
01:24:40,466 --> 01:24:44,905
Karl came to see the set
at the Grand Palais.
1362
01:24:44,949 --> 01:24:50,476
We had made posters: 30% off.
1363
01:24:51,825 --> 01:24:54,654
And suddenly he stops.
1364
01:24:54,698 --> 01:24:56,047
And he says, "There's no way.
1365
01:24:56,091 --> 01:24:58,397
"We're Chanel,
we don't do sales.
1366
01:24:58,441 --> 01:25:00,225
"It has to be plus 30%."
1367
01:25:00,269 --> 01:25:04,099
So we changed all the posters
the day before the show
to plus 30%.
1368
01:25:07,667 --> 01:25:09,278
I've still got
the picture of Karl
1369
01:25:09,321 --> 01:25:11,236
when he first
inspected the set.
1370
01:25:11,280 --> 01:25:14,674
And he just stood there,
a bit like a lost child.
1371
01:25:14,718 --> 01:25:19,070
Sort of picking an apple
out of a pile of apples.
1372
01:25:19,114 --> 01:25:20,115
And then looked at me,
and he said,
1373
01:25:20,158 --> 01:25:22,073
"I've never been
in a supermarket."
1374
01:25:28,340 --> 01:25:30,299
The pleasure of shopping
1375
01:25:30,342 --> 01:25:33,215
is a cultural activity
of our days.
1376
01:25:39,525 --> 01:25:41,832
I loved
the supermarket collection.
1377
01:25:43,268 --> 01:25:46,053
So clever and so smart.
And funny.
1378
01:25:53,322 --> 01:25:55,106
Were you thinking
and realizing that, you know,
1379
01:25:55,150 --> 01:25:56,760
because we're
so into Instagram
1380
01:25:56,803 --> 01:25:57,935
and like the whole generation,
1381
01:25:57,978 --> 01:25:59,763
it's very Instagram ready,
isn't it?
1382
01:25:59,806 --> 01:26:02,113
I think it's already
all over the place.
1383
01:26:02,157 --> 01:26:03,288
But that's why I do it,
you know.
1384
01:26:05,595 --> 01:26:07,553
MARIE-LOUISE:
A commercial for Chanel,
1385
01:26:07,597 --> 01:26:10,034
directed by Ridley Scott
or Baz Luhrmann
1386
01:26:10,077 --> 01:26:11,818
costs millions to produce.
1387
01:26:12,950 --> 01:26:15,648
But Karl, with his shows...
1388
01:26:15,692 --> 01:26:21,741
gets a much better result with
all the social media today.
1389
01:26:21,785 --> 01:26:26,964
And it's extraordinary.
Karl is known
all over the world.
1390
01:26:27,007 --> 01:26:29,009
And this is something
that really...
1391
01:26:29,836 --> 01:26:31,621
Karl invented for Chanel.
1392
01:26:31,664 --> 01:26:34,667
Because after that,
all designers
followed his footsteps.
1393
01:26:34,711 --> 01:26:37,888
Everyone has copied Chanel.
Absolutely everyone.
1394
01:26:37,931 --> 01:26:39,542
Departure to Rue Cambon,
1395
01:26:39,585 --> 01:26:43,328
Chanel Lines flight number 19
at Gate K.
1396
01:27:24,500 --> 01:27:28,547
He made Chanel
what it is today,
1397
01:27:29,983 --> 01:27:33,509
so attractive
to the whole world.
1398
01:27:44,476 --> 01:27:47,479
Cuba, it was magical.
1399
01:27:47,523 --> 01:27:51,048
And then, at night,
we all danced.
1400
01:27:51,091 --> 01:27:56,662
Well, Karl was amazing,
amazing dancer!
1401
01:27:57,881 --> 01:28:01,885
Just so onto the rhythm.
1402
01:28:01,928 --> 01:28:03,278
And it was
the first time also,
1403
01:28:03,321 --> 01:28:04,496
because maybe
it's the first time
1404
01:28:04,540 --> 01:28:06,498
that he was holding me
like this,
1405
01:28:06,542 --> 01:28:11,416
that I felt Karl as the man.
1406
01:28:11,460 --> 01:28:12,417
You know?
1407
01:28:12,461 --> 01:28:14,680
Like there was
something about...
1408
01:28:14,724 --> 01:28:17,683
the sensuality.
1409
01:28:17,727 --> 01:28:20,773
He was, like, constantly
wearing those big,
smoky glasses,
1410
01:28:20,817 --> 01:28:23,210
you could rarely see his eyes.
1411
01:28:23,254 --> 01:28:25,256
And I loved when
he took off those glasses,
1412
01:28:25,300 --> 01:28:27,389
each time was like ,
it's like...
1413
01:28:28,564 --> 01:28:29,695
falling in love, you know?
1414
01:28:29,739 --> 01:28:32,481
The man had this look
in his eyes.
1415
01:28:34,613 --> 01:28:37,747
I have to be careful.
I'm being watched.
1416
01:28:37,790 --> 01:28:40,184
And his eyes
was like the look in the eyes
1417
01:28:40,227 --> 01:28:42,186
that you can find
in, like, kids,
1418
01:28:42,229 --> 01:28:45,885
they're four
or five years old,
where it's still pure,
1419
01:28:45,929 --> 01:28:47,452
nothing has been damaged.
1420
01:28:47,496 --> 01:28:50,237
Maybe that's why he kept
his glasses, you know,
1421
01:28:50,281 --> 01:28:52,065
because he didn't want
to maybe look
1422
01:28:52,109 --> 01:28:56,940
so sensitive or vulnerable.
1423
01:29:13,826 --> 01:29:15,567
Karl and I
developed this trust.
1424
01:29:17,961 --> 01:29:20,224
He became more closer to me
when my mother died.
1425
01:29:24,054 --> 01:29:27,318
He was talking more
about his private life.
1426
01:29:27,971 --> 01:29:29,973
And he start now
1427
01:29:30,016 --> 01:29:32,454
to be more open
to talk with me,
you know?
1428
01:29:34,151 --> 01:29:36,719
The relationship
between Karl and Sebastien
1429
01:29:36,762 --> 01:29:42,377
was very tender,
but they fought
like a bad marriage.
1430
01:29:42,420 --> 01:29:45,380
Karl would mutter to me
in the car, you know,
1431
01:29:45,423 --> 01:29:46,859
"Sebastien's in a bad mood.
1432
01:29:46,903 --> 01:29:50,210
"He left his phone on the roof
of the car, and it smashed.
1433
01:29:50,254 --> 01:29:52,561
"And his world had ended."
1434
01:29:52,604 --> 01:29:55,955
But equally, Sebastien gave
all his time up.
1435
01:29:55,999 --> 01:29:58,349
It was 24/7 with Karl.
1436
01:30:01,004 --> 01:30:02,875
We were like family,
but we were not family.
1437
01:30:03,659 --> 01:30:05,269
But we were family.
1438
01:30:05,312 --> 01:30:06,705
If he was my father,
at one point,
1439
01:30:06,749 --> 01:30:09,621
I would have said, like,
"Go fuck yourself, sorry.
1440
01:30:09,665 --> 01:30:11,275
"You know,
you're too much now."
1441
01:30:11,318 --> 01:30:13,625
But you cannot say that
when he's not your father.
1442
01:30:13,669 --> 01:30:15,584
But you do everything
like he was.
1443
01:30:17,716 --> 01:30:19,718
I never wanted children.
1444
01:30:19,762 --> 01:30:22,721
Why? Firstly
because I'm irresponsible.
1445
01:30:22,765 --> 01:30:25,202
And the stupid thing
about children
1446
01:30:25,245 --> 01:30:27,291
is that they can make
grandparents out of you.
1447
01:30:27,334 --> 01:30:29,380
And I have no desire for that.
I belong to no generation.
1448
01:30:29,424 --> 01:30:31,600
And that is the secret
of the whole story.
1449
01:30:31,643 --> 01:30:34,167
I am generationally liberated.
1450
01:30:37,562 --> 01:30:40,435
Never in my life did I think
I would have a Choupette.
1451
01:30:41,740 --> 01:30:45,657
But you must admit that
she's irresistible.
1452
01:30:45,701 --> 01:30:47,398
LILY-ROSE:
He started
calling me Choupette,
1453
01:30:47,442 --> 01:30:48,486
and it was really sweet.
1454
01:30:48,530 --> 01:30:50,836
We bonded a lot over our cats.
1455
01:30:50,880 --> 01:30:54,492
Choupette represented
the softness in him, you know,
1456
01:30:54,536 --> 01:30:58,365
represented his affectionate,
kind of very lovable,
1457
01:30:58,409 --> 01:30:59,932
very childlike side.
1458
01:30:59,976 --> 01:31:04,023
Choupette was his alter ego.
1459
01:31:04,589 --> 01:31:05,808
It was him.
1460
01:31:05,851 --> 01:31:07,853
He would express love
through Choupette,
1461
01:31:07,897 --> 01:31:10,073
pretending that
she was loving you
1462
01:31:10,116 --> 01:31:12,597
but in reality, it was him.
1463
01:31:12,641 --> 01:31:14,686
Choupette is
a very beautiful cat.
1464
01:31:16,296 --> 01:31:20,953
And I think she really became
this spiritual friend.
1465
01:31:20,997 --> 01:31:23,521
She was like
the spirit of Karl's mother,
1466
01:31:23,565 --> 01:31:26,437
of everybody who protected
and loved Karl.
1467
01:31:26,481 --> 01:31:29,005
So that that, particularly
1468
01:31:29,048 --> 01:31:31,355
when he'd been diagnosed
with cancer,
1469
01:31:31,398 --> 01:31:33,444
must have been a huge solace
to him.
1470
01:31:35,446 --> 01:31:41,060
The illness of Karl's
start like in 2015.
1471
01:31:41,104 --> 01:31:45,369
Like basic problem
of the start of the shit,
you know.
1472
01:31:45,412 --> 01:31:49,852
Maybe if he decide
to go to have
this surgery on himself,
1473
01:31:49,895 --> 01:31:51,767
and to take off the prostate,
1474
01:31:51,810 --> 01:31:53,769
maybe he will be still
alive today.
1475
01:31:53,812 --> 01:31:56,293
But at this moment,
he decide to
do the other way.
1476
01:31:56,336 --> 01:31:58,600
He didn't want to people knows
that he have this problem.
1477
01:31:58,643 --> 01:32:00,471
He didn't want to lose times,
1478
01:32:00,515 --> 01:32:02,560
about collection and things
like this.
1479
01:32:02,604 --> 01:32:03,953
He didn't want to stop.
1480
01:32:03,996 --> 01:32:07,217
The machine was going on
for the... on the front.
1481
01:32:07,260 --> 01:32:09,480
You know, the train was like
keep going, you know.
1482
01:32:09,524 --> 01:32:10,960
That's what Karl wants.
1483
01:32:29,152 --> 01:32:32,764
Paris-Hamburg show
was the profound show.
1484
01:32:35,680 --> 01:32:37,464
That was Karl coming home.
1485
01:32:40,380 --> 01:32:42,861
He also knew that
he wasn't going home.
1486
01:32:43,558 --> 01:32:45,385
I think he knew that
1487
01:32:47,039 --> 01:32:49,259
things weren't going right
health-wise.
1488
01:32:51,653 --> 01:32:56,222
[IN FRENCH] Germany is
my spiritual homeland.
1489
01:32:59,138 --> 01:33:00,444
We were in the countryside.
1490
01:33:00,487 --> 01:33:03,447
So I was really isolated,
but in a good way,
1491
01:33:03,490 --> 01:33:06,885
deep in the forest where
happily nothing happened.
1492
01:33:10,149 --> 01:33:11,760
He always told me
that they were living
1493
01:33:11,803 --> 01:33:13,413
in the north of Germany,
1494
01:33:13,457 --> 01:33:16,112
and they were
not very touched by war.
1495
01:33:16,155 --> 01:33:18,418
And I think he made
a special legend about it
1496
01:33:18,462 --> 01:33:20,377
because he want himself
to forget
1497
01:33:20,420 --> 01:33:23,206
about all those crazy,
horrible things
happened there.
1498
01:33:28,298 --> 01:33:30,605
In the summer of 1943,
1499
01:33:30,648 --> 01:33:35,131
The English
and the Allied forces
planned Operation Gomorrah,
1500
01:33:36,915 --> 01:33:38,787
the destruction
of the city of Hamburg.
1501
01:33:54,672 --> 01:33:57,762
45,000 people will die.
1502
01:34:01,766 --> 01:34:05,378
And so you have to
imagine Karl Lagerfeld.
He is ten years old.
1503
01:34:05,422 --> 01:34:10,862
And even if he is
40 kilometres away,
protecting him from the bombs,
1504
01:34:10,906 --> 01:34:14,779
he would have seen the fires.
1505
01:34:14,823 --> 01:34:20,089
And he would have seen
the hundreds of thousands
of civilians
1506
01:34:20,132 --> 01:34:24,093
trying to escape
this Operation Gomorrah.
1507
01:34:28,750 --> 01:34:29,838
And...
1508
01:34:31,361 --> 01:34:32,841
he will never talk about it...
1509
01:34:35,800 --> 01:34:40,892
but he must have been
deeply affected.
1510
01:34:52,469 --> 01:34:59,084
And this child will find
books in which he discovers
the world of Versailles.
1511
01:35:01,130 --> 01:35:08,485
And this child is
going to project himself
into this imaginary world
1512
01:35:08,528 --> 01:35:12,707
to escape the horror
that was happening
all around him.
1513
01:35:15,100 --> 01:35:17,450
And this will stay with him
for the rest of his life.
1514
01:35:45,043 --> 01:35:47,393
The symphonic of Hamburg
1515
01:35:47,437 --> 01:35:49,439
was a new building
by Herzog and de Meuron
1516
01:35:49,482 --> 01:35:50,875
which was quite stunning.
1517
01:35:50,919 --> 01:35:52,877
It was the new pride
of Hamburg.
1518
01:35:54,357 --> 01:35:57,229
And for the music,
we had an orchestra.
1519
01:35:57,273 --> 01:35:59,623
There was this track
called La Paloma,
1520
01:35:59,666 --> 01:36:02,931
which is a song
that Karl adored.
1521
01:36:07,892 --> 01:36:11,635
That's what the wives
of the sailors
would listen to in Hamburg
1522
01:36:11,678 --> 01:36:13,550
when their husbands went away.
1523
01:36:20,862 --> 01:36:22,602
When, during the rehearsal,
Karl asked me,
1524
01:36:22,646 --> 01:36:24,169
"Can the musicians
do it again?"
1525
01:36:24,213 --> 01:36:27,129
And like, we'd listen to it
like five, six times in a row.
1526
01:36:38,880 --> 01:36:40,229
He twisted it.
1527
01:36:44,668 --> 01:36:47,279
There was an atmosphere
that wasn't Karl...
1528
01:36:48,498 --> 01:36:49,499
the Karl we knew...
1529
01:36:50,674 --> 01:36:53,503
or the Karl... he showed us.
1530
01:36:54,199 --> 01:36:56,375
But it was Karl.
1531
01:36:56,419 --> 01:37:00,075
It was... the materials
were thicker.
1532
01:37:00,118 --> 01:37:02,555
There was something
very, very emotional.
1533
01:37:04,862 --> 01:37:06,908
'Cause he doesn't
like the past.
1534
01:37:06,951 --> 01:37:09,780
So, to go back there
meant something also.
1535
01:37:13,436 --> 01:37:17,570
There was something
very elegiac about it.
1536
01:37:17,614 --> 01:37:20,486
The line of those coats.
1537
01:37:21,705 --> 01:37:23,315
Even the shoe,
1538
01:37:23,359 --> 01:37:25,274
which has a narrow,
narrow toe box,
1539
01:37:25,317 --> 01:37:27,189
it's just so elegant.
1540
01:37:34,196 --> 01:37:36,546
That collection was
unbelievably comfortable.
1541
01:37:40,419 --> 01:37:42,813
You know, those jerseys
are my favourite jerseys.
1542
01:37:42,857 --> 01:37:46,295
And those trousers,
it just felt really practical.
1543
01:37:46,338 --> 01:37:49,820
So, it did feel like
a return collection
1544
01:37:49,864 --> 01:37:51,735
and a sort of essentials.
1545
01:37:51,778 --> 01:37:54,694
Like a capsule for a journey.
1546
01:37:59,395 --> 01:38:03,878
Maybe he became closer
to his mother, finally.
1547
01:38:10,319 --> 01:38:13,931
He spoke about
how much he had to
leave Hamburg,
1548
01:38:13,975 --> 01:38:16,151
and how his mother
encouraged him.
1549
01:38:17,587 --> 01:38:18,414
How he'd...
1550
01:38:19,241 --> 01:38:20,982
watched the boats
1551
01:38:21,025 --> 01:38:23,419
sailing down the River Elbe
1552
01:38:23,462 --> 01:38:27,597
and out into the infinity
of the world
1553
01:38:27,640 --> 01:38:29,294
with all its potential.
1554
01:38:35,605 --> 01:38:38,651
[IN FRENCH] Without her,
I wouldn't be here
to begin with.
1555
01:38:42,220 --> 01:38:44,744
It seemed hard
and difficult at times,
1556
01:38:44,788 --> 01:38:46,921
but in the end,
she was always right.
1557
01:39:12,337 --> 01:39:13,948
He knew he was ill.
1558
01:39:16,211 --> 01:39:18,474
But it was suddenly this way
he was looking at me.
1559
01:39:18,517 --> 01:39:20,476
And we'd leave the studio,
1560
01:39:20,519 --> 01:39:24,088
and we'd be in the lift,
Sebastien, Karl, and I,
1561
01:39:24,132 --> 01:39:26,003
and Karl had really
kept it together.
1562
01:39:26,047 --> 01:39:29,572
He must have been
in great pain.
1563
01:39:29,615 --> 01:39:33,619
That in itself sluiced
with a great fear,
1564
01:39:33,663 --> 01:39:38,146
the work keeping him going
like a sort of lifeline.
1565
01:39:38,189 --> 01:39:41,236
But then in the lift,
going down
to get to the car,
1566
01:39:41,279 --> 01:39:44,369
he almost slumped against
the wall of the lift,
1567
01:39:44,413 --> 01:39:46,197
the metal wall.
1568
01:39:46,241 --> 01:39:48,069
He just didn't...
not wearing his glasses,
1569
01:39:48,112 --> 01:39:50,462
like sort of everything
coming apart,
1570
01:39:50,506 --> 01:39:53,030
like buttons, jacket,
1571
01:39:53,074 --> 01:39:57,600
so unlike the Karl we know
where everything is strictly,
1572
01:39:57,643 --> 01:40:00,559
you know, the line,
the discipline.
1573
01:40:00,603 --> 01:40:02,344
And he would be looking at me,
1574
01:40:03,519 --> 01:40:04,737
looking at me...
1575
01:40:05,912 --> 01:40:07,653
as if he was looking at me
1576
01:40:08,393 --> 01:40:10,439
from very, very far away,
1577
01:40:11,092 --> 01:40:12,354
and he was leaving.
1578
01:40:17,315 --> 01:40:20,362
[IN FRENCH] I don't want
to be seen when I'm dead.
I find it awful.
1579
01:40:20,405 --> 01:40:22,799
Cover me up
and throw me in the trash.
Done, over.
1580
01:40:22,842 --> 01:40:27,282
I find that
the ultimate indiscretion
to look at dead people
1581
01:40:27,325 --> 01:40:30,937
while they lie there
defenceless, the poor people.
1582
01:40:36,682 --> 01:40:40,121
Spring/Summer 2019,
1583
01:40:40,164 --> 01:40:43,211
his last haute couture
collection.
1584
01:40:43,254 --> 01:40:47,867
The scene
was like ideal villa,
1585
01:40:49,043 --> 01:40:50,609
in the south of France,
1586
01:40:51,480 --> 01:40:53,873
with this beautiful garden
1587
01:40:53,917 --> 01:40:55,832
in the 18th century.
1588
01:40:58,269 --> 01:41:01,751
It was a vision of
what he loved the most.
1589
01:41:14,024 --> 01:41:18,768
At Versailles,
Madame Pompadour
ordered porcelain flowers.
1590
01:41:20,683 --> 01:41:25,862
They were in the gardens of
Versailles during wintertime.
1591
01:41:25,905 --> 01:41:30,954
And some dresses were inspired
by these porcelain flowers.
1592
01:41:33,783 --> 01:41:36,351
Karl was really passionate
about those ceramic flowers
1593
01:41:36,394 --> 01:41:39,180
because... they wouldn't die.
1594
01:41:39,223 --> 01:41:40,877
I mean, they were here
in the winter.
1595
01:41:47,144 --> 01:41:50,234
It was incredible
when we arrived at this show.
1596
01:41:50,278 --> 01:41:52,497
There was a lot of snow
in Paris.
1597
01:41:52,541 --> 01:41:54,891
It had snowed heavily
the day before.
1598
01:41:59,330 --> 01:42:03,117
And when we arrived
from outside,
1599
01:42:03,160 --> 01:42:09,123
in this warm garden
with its palm trees
and cypresses,
1600
01:42:09,166 --> 01:42:11,690
all that was missing
was the crickets.
1601
01:42:11,734 --> 01:42:13,214
An incredible contrast.
1602
01:42:20,525 --> 01:42:23,049
I was trying to put Karl
in the show.
1603
01:42:23,093 --> 01:42:24,877
I said, "Karl, let's go.
We have to go.
1604
01:42:24,921 --> 01:42:26,270
"We have to go.
It's not good not to go."
1605
01:42:26,314 --> 01:42:29,621
Because I know, for everyone,
1606
01:42:29,665 --> 01:42:32,233
if he was not at the show,
that was the end.
1607
01:42:32,276 --> 01:42:34,191
Because Karl never happened
in his life
1608
01:42:34,235 --> 01:42:35,105
to miss a show.
1609
01:42:51,513 --> 01:42:52,731
There was a moment,
1610
01:42:52,775 --> 01:42:56,039
a moment of great emotion
because...
1611
01:42:58,084 --> 01:43:01,131
we didn't see Karl
come out at the end.
1612
01:43:24,067 --> 01:43:25,808
MARIE-LOUISE:
I saw him after that show.
1613
01:43:25,851 --> 01:43:29,072
I saw him,
I remember very well
speaking with him.
1614
01:43:29,115 --> 01:43:31,030
And his favourite
speaking with me
1615
01:43:31,074 --> 01:43:32,597
was about Princess Palatine.
1616
01:43:35,731 --> 01:43:38,647
He loved to speak to me
about Princess Palatine.
1617
01:43:58,710 --> 01:44:01,017
Karl was like
a falcon in a gyre.
1618
01:44:02,801 --> 01:44:07,502
He just rose on this thermal
of his own creativity
1619
01:44:07,545 --> 01:44:10,461
from decade
to decade to decade
1620
01:44:10,505 --> 01:44:13,116
until what was left, heaven.
1621
01:44:21,342 --> 01:44:24,127
I have no regrets.
1622
01:44:24,170 --> 01:44:26,172
Remorse perhaps,
but not any regrets.
1623
01:44:28,305 --> 01:44:31,134
You know that quote,
"I have been everything,
1624
01:44:31,177 --> 01:44:33,354
"loved everything,
tasted everything,
1625
01:44:35,094 --> 01:44:36,574
"and now I am an icy star."
1626
01:45:04,472 --> 01:45:08,650
♪ This is the number one song
in heaven ♪
1627
01:45:11,261 --> 01:45:16,397
♪ Written, of course,
by the mightiest hand ♪
1628
01:45:18,964 --> 01:45:24,143
♪ All of the angels are sheep
in the fold of their master ♪
1629
01:45:26,668 --> 01:45:31,716
♪ They always follow
the master and his plan ♪
1630
01:45:35,024 --> 01:45:39,245
♪ This is the number one song
in heaven ♪
1631
01:45:41,813 --> 01:45:47,341
♪ Why are you hearing it now,
you ask ♪
1632
01:45:49,604 --> 01:45:54,609
♪ Maybe you're closer to here
than you imagine ♪
1633
01:45:57,089 --> 01:46:03,226
♪ Maybe you're closer to here
than you care to be ♪
1634
01:46:11,974 --> 01:46:14,237
LILY-ROSE: He was a designer
for the modern woman,
you know,
1635
01:46:14,280 --> 01:46:16,239
or for the modern person.
1636
01:46:16,282 --> 01:46:18,241
Whatever modern meant
at that time.
1637
01:46:20,417 --> 01:46:23,812
His spirit is
completely alive everywhere.
1638
01:46:23,855 --> 01:46:27,337
That's my favourite thing,
is to be sitting next to him
1639
01:46:27,381 --> 01:46:32,298
and hearing him telling me
all the worst gossips
1640
01:46:32,342 --> 01:46:34,605
about everybody around.
1641
01:46:34,649 --> 01:46:37,695
He gave me
loads of books,
which I didn't read, okay?
1642
01:46:37,739 --> 01:46:40,568
Where we connected
was on Rilke,
1643
01:46:40,611 --> 01:46:42,221
not that he said
you could ever
understand it
1644
01:46:42,265 --> 01:46:43,701
in anything except for German.
1645
01:46:43,745 --> 01:46:46,704
Virginia Woolf, definitely.
Absolutely.
1646
01:46:46,748 --> 01:46:50,099
Emily Dickinson, a lot.
Don't ask me to quote any.
1647
01:46:50,142 --> 01:46:52,231
If he said, "Oh, I read
this incredible book,
1648
01:46:52,275 --> 01:46:53,145
"have you read it?"
And I said no,
1649
01:46:53,189 --> 01:46:54,799
he wouldn't exactly go,
1650
01:46:54,843 --> 01:46:55,887
"[CLICKS TONGUE] Oh."
1651
01:46:55,931 --> 01:46:57,149
But he almost did,
1652
01:46:57,193 --> 01:46:58,847
and you felt like, "Damn,
I'm letting him down,
1653
01:46:58,890 --> 01:47:00,239
"I can't have
that conversation."
1654
01:47:00,283 --> 01:47:01,632
But then the next time
you saw him,
1655
01:47:01,676 --> 01:47:03,591
you would say,
"I've read it."
1656
01:47:03,634 --> 01:47:05,593
And he'd say, "Right,
let's talk about it."
1657
01:47:05,636 --> 01:47:06,942
And we did.
1658
01:47:06,985 --> 01:47:09,161
And he loved it
when you thought differently.
1659
01:47:15,951 --> 01:47:20,999
What Karl has given
to the future generations
of design
1660
01:47:21,043 --> 01:47:23,567
is so enormous.
1661
01:47:23,611 --> 01:47:28,659
By setting up 19M
with Bruno Pavlosky,
1662
01:47:28,703 --> 01:47:32,054
which houses
the artisanal skills
1663
01:47:32,097 --> 01:47:34,099
which were really endangered.
1664
01:47:34,143 --> 01:47:36,058
I mean, literally
couldn't pay the rent,
1665
01:47:37,712 --> 01:47:40,889
they have flourished
to the point where
1666
01:47:40,932 --> 01:47:45,110
the ateliers are full
of young embroiderers,
1667
01:47:45,154 --> 01:47:47,678
pleaters, featherers.
1668
01:47:54,163 --> 01:47:55,817
I love that building.
1669
01:47:56,948 --> 01:47:59,037
I went there
and I took my daughter
1670
01:47:59,081 --> 01:48:04,260
to see how everyone is,
like, working by hand.
1671
01:48:06,305 --> 01:48:08,917
Because my grandmother
taught me how to knit,
1672
01:48:08,960 --> 01:48:11,789
how to sew,
and I'm teaching my daughter.
1673
01:48:11,833 --> 01:48:14,139
I would love to spend
a week there learning.
1674
01:48:14,183 --> 01:48:17,708
♪ It's number one,
all over heaven ♪
1675
01:48:17,752 --> 01:48:20,711
♪ It's number one,
all over heaven ♪
1676
01:48:20,755 --> 01:48:23,932
♪ The number one song
all over heaven... ♪